From Dublin, Ohio to Fano, The Marche, Italy ...

Musings on visting, moving to, touring, living in, and buying property in Italy, as well as commentary on the customs and practices of Italians that differ from similar topics in the US.

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Monday, April 24, 2006

Driving in Italy ...

(drafted April 24 & 25, 2006, actually posted April 25, 2006)

The art of driving in Italy is admired by most vistors there. It's an easy place to drive, and we would do well to pick up on at least some of the karma of Italian drivers.

I want to confess early-on that I'm an Ohio driver. Normally, that would mean I would have no redeeming qualities as a driver. However, I can stipulate that I started driving in New York, so I consider myself an Ohio transplant driver, with no claim on the poor driving habits of most native Ohioans.

Ohioans have two major problems when they drive. Both are, I feel, a result of feeling like, "Dang, I pay my taxes, I can drive anywhere and any way I like!"

This means two things.

First, that I'm more important than you, and so I'll do whatever I like. Like, not pull into the intersection when turning left against traffic so as to "burn" a few light cycles so we can all watch the traffic going by in the lane(s) to the left of us. Or, my NY-trained-driver Dad's favorite pet peeve ... as he would illustrate it, "Has an Ohio driver EVER used a turn signal?" Nuff said.

Second, the, "I’ll drive 50 in the most left-hand lane of the Interstate because, by Gawd, I pay my taxes just like everyone else!"

The common themes here are lack of understanding of traffic laws and movement, and selfishness. Plain and simple.

In Italy, it's all different.

In Italy, driving is gracious, impatient, artful, casual, serious, focused, crazy, organized, safe, and polite ... all in one.

Some explanation ...

Italian drivers, by and large, drive much faster than their American counterparts. It's one of the seemingly great contradictions of Italy and Italians. They'll take hours to get a meal just right, they're masters at the art of deep conversation, yet when driving it appears they have no patience and an incredible sense of urgency.

But with speed come responsibility, graciousness, and concentration.

Italian drivers have figured out that we all have to work together on the roadways to get where we want to go as fast as possible, and as safely as possible.

The leftmost lane is for passing, or driving REALLY fast ... faster than anyone else around you. The rightmost lane is for the slowest driver around. The lanes in between (if there are any) rank accordingly. Oh yeah, they drive on the right just like here in the US. Forgot that tiny bit of information.

In essence, drive right, pass left.

Sound familiar? That's what we're supposed to do here in the US. Really? Fat chance. The "I-pay-my-taxes-and-I'll-drive-in-any-lane-I-want." crowd has done away with that. Or perhaps it's the, "I-go-unconscious-the-minute-I-get-behind-the-wheel." crowd?

Whatever.

It is a cardinal sin in Italy to drive slowly in the left lane(s). The idea, to keep traffic moving and, oh my goodness, actually SHOW SOME CONSIDERATION to fellow drivers, is to pass and then GET BACK OVER TO THE RIGHT AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

Italians just about NEVER pass on the right on highways (autostrade, superstrade, etc.). WARNING! Try it, and you'll feel the wrath of the entire nation. And, that's as it should be. We should all know (but don't) that passing on the right is unsafe, and often against local traffic laws.

Italian graciousness comes into play when one does sort of go unconscious at the wheel and stay in the left lane. From far away, as they are approaching from behind, they will flash their headlights to wake you up and politely ask you to get over so they can pass safely. In Italy, and much of Europe, this is customary. In the US, do this and another driver will pull out a gun and shoot you.

That's another thing; road rage is virtually non-existent in Italy. Sure, people will gesture, people will mouth things, but nobody would chase you down, confront you, and perform physically harmful actions upon you. It's just a brief, "They're surely an idiot!" moment, and it's over. Like a summer thundershower. Lots of bluster, but not for long, and then the sun's back out. A bit of public admonishment, almost always well deserved, without gunfire. Novel idea that.

Italian graciousness is also exemplified when you might be driving in the right lane, coming up - quickly - on a slow moving vehicle in front of you, with someone in position to possibly block your ability to pass the vehicle without having to slow down. Most Italians who would be driving in the left lane at this time, because they are so tuned in when they drive, will let up on the throttle (gas), flash you quickly (to let you know it's OK), and ... believe it or not ... actually let you into the left lane IN FRONT OF THEM. Yes, be prepared. The first time it happens to you it will provide plenty of cardiac arrhythmia.

Italians often get a bad rap for being disorganized ... sometimes out of control ... bureaucratic. I like to think of Italy as "highly organized visual pandemonium". There are organization and rules for everything, while it appears that things are not ordered or structured. Try a day at an Italian pay beach and you'll know what I mean. Wonderful.

Italians are highly focused when driving. They have few distractions. They just drive ... and fast. They rarely eat in their cars. This is because they worship the car in Italy. Guess it's a Formula 1 thing. American translation: "Hmmm, I reckon it's a NACAR thang."

It's against the law to talk on a cell phone and drive in Italy. Sure, people do it, but much more infrequently than here. You'll see people pulled over on the highways much more frequently than here. No, they're not in distress ... they're making or taking a call.

Seat belts are mandatory. Italians are as casual about this as we are. But, they do have traffic stops where they'll fine you if your belt's not cinched. Beware.

Lane markers (like the paint on the road) and stop signs are what I would call "guidelines". Don't expect them to be adhered to like here. They're there for assistance only.

You'll often see people passing in an almost blind, single lane situation on side roads (surface roads). Italians get this, and drive well to the right (or are prepared to pull over immediately) so as to "make" a third lane for such use. And they look out for this. Concentration while driving. Focus. Remember? Takes a bit of getting used to but it works.

Traffic lights appear to me to be just about the only thing in the world of Italian driving that is obeyed, except in the craziest driving situations (like downtown Rome). Best to go with the flow here.

All in all, I'd rank Italian drivers as better, safer, and more polite than their American counterparts. But, they get REAL impatient with lack of cooperation. Italian roads are not the place to show your individuality. My advice? Get into the Italian groove when driving and stay there.

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