My Region's the Only Region

One must be careful when asking Italians for their opinion on things culinary and epicurean.

It's not that they won't give you an honest opinion, but remember this ... it's always an opinion.

Now, on the surface this would seem no different than asking anyone, anywhere their opinion on food and drink. What one needs to factor into the response given my most Italians is that they will automatically rule out just about 100% of any food or drink not made in their region. The only glaring exception to this is the rare Italian who's a "trasferire" or has transferred their residence ... and it's most noticeable when they've moved to a big city, like Rome. Then, you might get an opinion that factors in food and beverage from more than one region ... but then again, maybe not!

There's no deception or deceit intended by their responses. The facts are that they believe, to their core and with every fiber of their being, that the only good food and drink are those produced in their region. And, to emphasize the point, they'll actually give you what appears to be a think-tank researched justification for their recommendations.

"The cheeses in Tuscany are too bland."

"The breads in the south are too dry."

"The wines in the Marche are too sharp."

"The meats in Puglia are too fatty."

And they'll proclaim these opinions and preferences as if they are indisputable facts known round the world. As in, "You mean you didn't know that the food in Lombardy is too rich and therefore unhealthy for you?"

What was I thinking? Of course I knew that, I just forgot.

The Autogrill Experience

One of my family's favorite stops on any trip to Italy is an Autogrill. All of you who have been to Italy on a trip where you drove know exactly what they are. Those of you who haven't are missing an experience. Everyone who goes to Italy has to experience an Autogrill. Everyone.

An Autogrill is like a best truck stop or rest area you've ever experienced on steroids, and good steroids at that.

Autogrills have traditionally been found on the autostrade of Italy. However, you'll also find them at train stations, airports, and some downtown locations as well (like Rome). I also understand that they've expanded the concept outside of Italy.

At an Autogrill, you can eat a quick sandwich (panino) and grab a cup of coffee (caffe) or some other beverage (bevande). You can also, many times, have a sit down meal cafeteria style that has choices that include typical Italian pastas and sauces, meat entrees, salads, and desserts.

Additionally, there's a complete miniature supermarket and gift store included as well. Need a proscuitto? I mean a WHOLE proscuitto. You can often get it. Need any variety of fresh or dried pasta? You can get it. Fresh baked loaves of bread. Ditto. Cold cuts (like a huge chunk of mortadella)? They have it. Wines? Check. Balsamic vinegar? Check. Pannetone? Check. Cookies, crackers, pastries, candy, soft drinks ... everything!

The quality of the food, by American restaurant standards, and I mean all restaurants, not just truck stops or rest stops, is high ... very high. Prices are quite reasonable. Bathrooms work. Plus, you can fuel up as well (assuming you're at a location on the autostrade).

On top of all this, the color scheme (bright red) and Italian styling are just as appealing to the eye as the food is to the palette.

Kids love 'em. Grown ups love 'em. Everyone loves 'em!

Try one when you next visit Italy. And then let me know what you think.

Less IS More

In the US, we've become accustomed to always expecting more ... usually more for our money. My family will tell you that Sam's Club is my favorite store, so I'm just as guilty of expecting this as the next guy (or gal).

But this is a concept that breaks down terribly when extended to eating.

By and large, except for special occasions, we've allowed the restaurant industry to cater to our insatiable desire for more. The majority of Americans consider portion size more important than flavor ... or ingredient quality. Thus, we've grown to be an incredibly overweight (obese?) nation. But I've already beat that topic to death. We hear that portion size control is needed to "unfatten" America. Good luck my fellow American eaters! The deck is stacked against us everywhere.

In Italy, they've managed to keep alive a self discipline around quality, taste, and portion size. These attributes all blend together into a solution that makes sense in terms of satisfaction, socialization, and weight management.

Italians are obsessed with the quality of their food and its ingredients. They will not stand for sub-par quality or taste. Eating is a national pastime ... ranking in level of interest right up there with football (aka soccer in the US). Anyone trying to sell some of the tasteless, yet inexpensive, mass-produced food products and produce we actually will buy in the US would be out of business in no time. We're even becoming tired of the lack of quality in our food choices ... thus the rapid rise of chains like Whole Foods. But, even the quality of the products they sell would be considered marginal by the standards of most Italians.

Food preparation is time consuming and carefully done in Italy. Forget the fast food, pre-fab meal, Rachel-Ray-30-minute-meal deals. Speed of food preparation is not anywhere near as important to Italians as it is to us. The amount of time spent on buying (typically at an outdoor market or small market, although superstores are growing in popularity), preparing, and eating meals is considerably longer than in the US. Considerably. We're obsessed with speed ... we eat to live (even though we'll deny this to the grave). Italians live to eat, and socialize. Meals are an event to be savored, not rushed.

Restaurants are savants at portion size in Italy. In the US, selecting from every section of the menu ... appetizer, salad, entree, dessert ... will likely get you enough calories for a day (or more) ... 2,000 ... 2,500 ... because we all-too-often associate portion size with quality and/or value. The jokes about high-end restaurants and their small portions are legion, as are the TV commercials taking advantage of same.

In Italy, you're almost expected, at a regular meal, to order from every section of the menu. And if you do so, you'll likely be perfectly satisfied without being stuffed. If you get into the swing of things, and do as Italians do every meal, you'll also find that you'll have less desire to snack between meals.

This less is more attitude carries over into the most casual of food choices. Even the sandwiches for sale at food shops and cafes are simple, high quality affairs. Often a slice or two (thin) of some awesome-flavored cured meat, a slice of cheese, and (maybe) a tomato slice with a lettuce leaf. Simple, tasty without condiments, healthy.

Just right in fact.

Can I get change with that?

This is a topic which will generate more questions than it will answer (unless you already know the answer!). It's perplexed me for some time but I've never taken the time to ask my Italian friends about it ... so I don't have any "from the horse's mouth" answers. Just ideas ...

The topic is best explained with a question:

Why does it appear that most Italian shopkeepers and vendors expect you to have EXACT change when paying with cash?

I know that others must have noticed this, because it's happened to us so many times, over so many years, in so many regions of Italy, over so many trips.

One goes into a store and wants to buy something for E4.25. One gives the shopkeeper E5.00. Shopkeeper actually picks through coins in hand (your hand) making up the E4.25 in twenty or thirty small coins ... and he ain't short on change.

Over 10 years, this has happened to us 20 or 30 times. No kidding.

It's also happened at gas stations.

Gas station attendant almost refuses to give change for a E39.00 purchase from a E50.00 bill. Only bill on my person. No cash otherwise. Finally, after much talk in Italian about why can't he "cambiare" ... and my Italian is good ... he finally relents and pulls out wads and wads of small bills as well as a change purse bursting with E2.00, E1.00 and E0.50 coins.

What gives?

My wife and I have hypothesized that it's a courtesy issue. If you're going to buy it, you should know how much it costs, and you should have the exact change ... or very, very close ... pennies maybe?

I'll make this a topic of research next trip (May 11 through May 19). I'll post my research here. In the meantime, please comment if you have an idea of what's behind this behavior. I'd hate to think I was being rude, or foolish, or stupid, or all three.

Thanks ... and Ciao!

-- Marco

Driving in Italy ...

(drafted April 24 & 25, 2006, actually posted April 25, 2006)

The art of driving in Italy is admired by most vistors there. It's an easy place to drive, and we would do well to pick up on at least some of the karma of Italian drivers.

I want to confess early-on that I'm an Ohio driver. Normally, that would mean I would have no redeeming qualities as a driver. However, I can stipulate that I started driving in New York, so I consider myself an Ohio transplant driver, with no claim on the poor driving habits of most native Ohioans.

Ohioans have two major problems when they drive. Both are, I feel, a result of feeling like, "Dang, I pay my taxes, I can drive anywhere and any way I like!"

This means two things.

First, that I'm more important than you, and so I'll do whatever I like. Like, not pull into the intersection when turning left against traffic so as to "burn" a few light cycles so we can all watch the traffic going by in the lane(s) to the left of us. Or, my NY-trained-driver Dad's favorite pet peeve ... as he would illustrate it, "Has an Ohio driver EVER used a turn signal?" Nuff said.

Second, the, "I’ll drive 50 in the most left-hand lane of the Interstate because, by Gawd, I pay my taxes just like everyone else!"

The common themes here are lack of understanding of traffic laws and movement, and selfishness. Plain and simple.

In Italy, it's all different.

In Italy, driving is gracious, impatient, artful, casual, serious, focused, crazy, organized, safe, and polite ... all in one.

Some explanation ...

Italian drivers, by and large, drive much faster than their American counterparts. It's one of the seemingly great contradictions of Italy and Italians. They'll take hours to get a meal just right, they're masters at the art of deep conversation, yet when driving it appears they have no patience and an incredible sense of urgency.

But with speed come responsibility, graciousness, and concentration.

Italian drivers have figured out that we all have to work together on the roadways to get where we want to go as fast as possible, and as safely as possible.

The leftmost lane is for passing, or driving REALLY fast ... faster than anyone else around you. The rightmost lane is for the slowest driver around. The lanes in between (if there are any) rank accordingly. Oh yeah, they drive on the right just like here in the US. Forgot that tiny bit of information.

In essence, drive right, pass left.

Sound familiar? That's what we're supposed to do here in the US. Really? Fat chance. The "I-pay-my-taxes-and-I'll-drive-in-any-lane-I-want." crowd has done away with that. Or perhaps it's the, "I-go-unconscious-the-minute-I-get-behind-the-wheel." crowd?

Whatever.

It is a cardinal sin in Italy to drive slowly in the left lane(s). The idea, to keep traffic moving and, oh my goodness, actually SHOW SOME CONSIDERATION to fellow drivers, is to pass and then GET BACK OVER TO THE RIGHT AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

Italians just about NEVER pass on the right on highways (autostrade, superstrade, etc.). WARNING! Try it, and you'll feel the wrath of the entire nation. And, that's as it should be. We should all know (but don't) that passing on the right is unsafe, and often against local traffic laws.

Italian graciousness comes into play when one does sort of go unconscious at the wheel and stay in the left lane. From far away, as they are approaching from behind, they will flash their headlights to wake you up and politely ask you to get over so they can pass safely. In Italy, and much of Europe, this is customary. In the US, do this and another driver will pull out a gun and shoot you.

That's another thing; road rage is virtually non-existent in Italy. Sure, people will gesture, people will mouth things, but nobody would chase you down, confront you, and perform physically harmful actions upon you. It's just a brief, "They're surely an idiot!" moment, and it's over. Like a summer thundershower. Lots of bluster, but not for long, and then the sun's back out. A bit of public admonishment, almost always well deserved, without gunfire. Novel idea that.

Italian graciousness is also exemplified when you might be driving in the right lane, coming up - quickly - on a slow moving vehicle in front of you, with someone in position to possibly block your ability to pass the vehicle without having to slow down. Most Italians who would be driving in the left lane at this time, because they are so tuned in when they drive, will let up on the throttle (gas), flash you quickly (to let you know it's OK), and ... believe it or not ... actually let you into the left lane IN FRONT OF THEM. Yes, be prepared. The first time it happens to you it will provide plenty of cardiac arrhythmia.

Italians often get a bad rap for being disorganized ... sometimes out of control ... bureaucratic. I like to think of Italy as "highly organized visual pandemonium". There are organization and rules for everything, while it appears that things are not ordered or structured. Try a day at an Italian pay beach and you'll know what I mean. Wonderful.

Italians are highly focused when driving. They have few distractions. They just drive ... and fast. They rarely eat in their cars. This is because they worship the car in Italy. Guess it's a Formula 1 thing. American translation: "Hmmm, I reckon it's a NACAR thang."

It's against the law to talk on a cell phone and drive in Italy. Sure, people do it, but much more infrequently than here. You'll see people pulled over on the highways much more frequently than here. No, they're not in distress ... they're making or taking a call.

Seat belts are mandatory. Italians are as casual about this as we are. But, they do have traffic stops where they'll fine you if your belt's not cinched. Beware.

Lane markers (like the paint on the road) and stop signs are what I would call "guidelines". Don't expect them to be adhered to like here. They're there for assistance only.

You'll often see people passing in an almost blind, single lane situation on side roads (surface roads). Italians get this, and drive well to the right (or are prepared to pull over immediately) so as to "make" a third lane for such use. And they look out for this. Concentration while driving. Focus. Remember? Takes a bit of getting used to but it works.

Traffic lights appear to me to be just about the only thing in the world of Italian driving that is obeyed, except in the craziest driving situations (like downtown Rome). Best to go with the flow here.

All in all, I'd rank Italian drivers as better, safer, and more polite than their American counterparts. But, they get REAL impatient with lack of cooperation. Italian roads are not the place to show your individuality. My advice? Get into the Italian groove when driving and stay there.

The most noticeable thing ...

What's the most noticeable thing about Italy that you remember?

This is the most interesting question I ask first time travelers to Italy. It's a loaded question, because I already know the answer. It's always the same. And it's answered this way:

"We Americans are REALLY FAT!!!"

It's kind of a backward way to answer the question. They never say, "Italians are so thin!", or, "Italians are in better shape!", or anything of that ilk.

Men and women then typically go on to say how beautiful everyone is. How no matter where you are, you are surrounded by just gorgeous people. When you get to a large airport and start associating with Americans again, it's very, very noticeable. Chunky, overweight, obese ... and lacking the style of Italians ... baggy sweatsuits and fleece rule the day. Quite a contrast!

Then again, who'd want to wear those close-fitting styles with bodies like most Americans?

I've given this topic considerable thought, and lots and lots of personal research ... it was soooo arduous ... researching all those Italian women. But, someone had to do it. I've paid particular attention to Italian women (surprise, surprise), but the same can be said of the men.

Everyone's into fashion and style, so dress is never sloppy or messy. I'm certain they can pick out many Americans from this alone. This applies not only to clothing, but hair styles, makeup, fragrances, footwear, accessories.

On the weight front, it's clear (at least to me) that there are many contributing factors.

First, by and large Italians walk a heck-of-a-lot more than we do. I'd say 4 to 5 times, at least, more than us. This alone would cause them to be much slimmer than us.

Second, they don't eat the JUNK we do. Little or no "fast food". McDonalds would be a once a month "treat" (if you could call it that) for Italian kids, not a daily meal replacement like here. No frozen pizzas. The food is fresh, wholesome, and balanced. They also never eat the huge bowls of pasta for an ENTRE like we do. Even the salty snacks are healthier ... check out the labels next trip, you'll be floored.

Third, they don't snack like we do, nor do they drink sugary soft drinks as much as we do. It seems like they've figured out that eating 3 balanced meals, often a very light breakfast (a cappuccino and a cornetta), a big lunch, and a reasonable dinner, and all is well. Throw in a little gelato during each evening's passeggiata, and tutto va bene!

We would do well to adopt this lifestyle. A little more (healthy) home cooking from scratch (and not sausage gravy for lard biscuits by the way) would do us a world of good, and likely lower our medical costs significantly.

You've just got to do it ...

People are amazed that we've purchased a property in Europe, specifically Italy. When we ask them about their consternation, the usual replies include something about either risk or difficulty (or both). I thought I'd give you my feelings on these concerns.

But, I must add that these are often the same people who would buy a timeshare in Mexico or some Caribbean country. I'll explain why they see their decision as "no risk" later.

There are a few types of risk to consider, I guess. The blatant "I've been ripped off!" result of risk and the "I (believe I) lost some money!" result of risk. Both of these types of risk can be mitigated by research and information. Get on the Internet and do your research. It's that simple. Understand property ownership laws in the country you have interest in. Read about what others have done. Join message boards and discussion groups and ask questions. Travel and work with a real estate agent in your country of choice and just look (as in don't buy). Buy books on the topic, or at least check them out at your local library. Pick up real estate newspapers in the areas you are interested in and study them. Ask locals what they think about your ideas, what they would do if they were you, and whether you are getting a good deal. Do all of this with multiple sources for each topic. Do not just take the word of one person who can speak English if you can't speak the native language. Take your time. Remember, all good things come with time. Make a quick decision and you'll be disappointed.

I contrast this to finally taking the plunge once you've done all the research ... in an "OK, here we go!" way. You may feel like you've made a knee jerk reaction when you actually haven't. It's a big decision. Here's a suggestion. Weigh the pile of pictures, brochures, and newspapers you've collected during this search. If they total 10 pounds or more, you've done your homework. Good for you. Go for it!

Assuming you feel comfortable with the land registry system (to protect your ownership interest) and that you're getting a fair deal, the "I lost some money!" risk should be considered. This is a bit more complex with a foreign property because there is both supply/demand risk, as well as currency fluctuation risk.

The supply and demand risk is no different in foreign lands than it is here. Look at historical sales prices, figure out if the market in your chosen area is at a peak or a trough. See if prices have held steady, dropped, or gone up. In other words, do your homework here too. Try to determine if the area is growing in popularity (for any reason), or not.

If you're planning on keeping your foreign property in the family for a long time, as we are, the currency fluctuation risk is less important. However, if you feel this may not be a "forever" transaction, the potential currency fluctuation (our dollar's value vs. the value of the foreign currency) is something important to consider.

In our situation, we feel good that we now have more of our portfolio invested in Euro instruments (in this case a property). The dollar vs. Euro rates have swung wildly over the past few years. Where we once could buy Euro for around $0.85 (and it was for a long time that we could do this), we've seen it go higher than $1.30. Today, it trades at around $1.23. If you'd bought a E200,000 property at the lower exchange rate ($0.85) and sold it today at a break even in terms of Euro (meaning you sold it for exactly the price you paid, E200,000), you'd have paid $170,000 for it and sold it for $246,000. You would have made almost 45% on the exchange rate alone (if my math is correct)!

Of course, the converse is also true!

The good news is that if this is a "buy and hold" situation, exchange rates always seem to ebb and flow over time. It may be a long time (10 years+), but it seems to happen this way as almost an indisputable fact of life.

Now, back to my time share friends. I believe they feel safer with a time share investment in Mexico or the Caribbean than they would with an Italian property like me, solely because of the difficulty factor.

Most time share operations will deal with them in English, may even be US companies with properties in Mexico or the Caribbean, and just plain make life simple so they can separate people from their money. In Italy, and elsewhere, this becomes a challenge. I took a number of years to learn the language well enough to read business documents without the need for a translator. It's not as straightforward as dealing in English, but it can be done.

There is also the distance factor that makes things a bit more difficult with a European property vs. Mexico or the Caribbean. Sure, it's a day's trip to Europe no matter how you slice it, vs. a few hours to Mexico or anywhere in the Caribbean. It requires more planning, and costs more (in most cases).

The trade offs are numerous. I would not consider Mexico or any Caribbean country as safe or as stable as Italy, Spain, France, or any other EU country. They may be closer, but that doesn't mitigate the risk you're assuming.

After all the study and thought, you just need to pull the trigger at some point and realize that to have your dream, you need to act. You've just got to go do it. Too many people dream of this, yet are afraid to act. The worst that can happen, if you've done your homework, is you lose a little money on a resale ... that should be the absolute worst case ... if you've done your homework!

Good luck with your decision. If I can help in any way, please let me know.

Ciao ... Marco

I've never been to the Grand Canyon ...

I have a friend who is almost offended when I talk about what I like about Italy. He's told me that he thinks I'm off my rocker because he feels I think (in his words), "Italy is better than the United States."

That's what he's taken away from my love for Italy, and the Italian people.

I've never said that, inferred that, nor do I believe that.

It's simply that I believe that there are "things" that people in other countries do, have, don't do, eat, drink, or whatever ... that makes that "thing" better than how we do it, have it, don't do it, etc.

My friend says things to me like, "Mark, you've never been to the Grand Canyon. Why would you waste your time traveling to Italy when you haven't seen your own country?"

Uhhh, because I don't want to disappointed by the long lines, traffic, pollution, commercialism, and all the other problems in the Grand Canyon National Park, that's why. I've seen just about everything I want to see in the US. Do I have to see everything before I'm allowed to leave and visit another country? Even the giant ball of twine in Goats Ear, Montana?

(a made up place, BTW ... don't try to Google it to go visit)

I still believe that the United States is the greatest country ... land of the free ... land of opportunity ... melting pot ... champion of the downtrodden and oppressed.

But there are places where they do "things" better.

The best example I can think of at this moment is Italian gelato. I'll leave it at that.

Have a great weekend!

Ciao ... Marco

Pastries That Look as Good as They Look

One of my previous blog entries spoke of Italian "eye candy". Here's a few before and after photos that illustrate the point in a very small way.

See: http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/more_pictures_1.htm

Pastries in Italy are a delight to see as well as eat. But when you take some home, you get a double dose of visual delight because their wrapping papers and ribbons make it even more special ... and these are small pastry stores, not Tiffany!

Enjoy & a presto! ... Mark (o Marco)

Che cos'è? What is it?

I had my first one-on-one Italian lesson with my new tutor today. I've been learning Italian for, gosh, about 5 years now. I just stunned myself by having to compute that number. Up until today, I had been using the Pimsleur series and "Learn In Your Car" and every other CD and cassette I could get my hands on. Plus, trips to Italy to practice in battle ... the markets, the stores, the cafes. I can't believe I didn't do this sooner ... but I digress.

My tutor asked me, in Italian, what it was that I liked the best about Italy. I had to think hard, really hard, to come up with both the answer, and then the answer in Italian. I sort of failed. No, let me restate that. I failed. I had to break role and use some English to get the point across. My response was simply that I liked the way Italians, everywhere, never do rushed small talk. There is never just a casual, quick conversation where neither party is really engaged or listening. Here in the US, because we're all moving so fast all the time, we do this all the time. And, I confess, I am the worst at it. Or, maybe the best at it, depending on how you look at it. I do it all the time. Disengaged, casual, quick, not really listening. Going through the motions.

But, when in Italy, I fall into the glorious trap of trying to be Italian. It happens, in one way, shape, or form, to everyone who goes there from a foreign country. Everyone, and I mean everyone, takes a little bit of Italy and makes it theirs. Maybe it's fashion, maybe it's music, maybe it's food ... but everyone does it. If you've been there, think about what I've just said and figure out how it's happened to you, because you know it has.

But, I digress ... again.

So, I fall into the trap of becoming part Italian, and part of that part is really being engaged in every conversation. Maybe it's the language - my having to concentrate oh so hard - or maybe it's simply the way that every Italian makes you feel like they're sitting there, on the edge of their seat, waiting for your next statement ... like it was going to be some gem they could take away and put in their jewlery box. And it's no act ... it's sincere. They care, and they listen, and they feed back ... they emote ... they comment ... they critique ... they have a real, honest-to-goodness discussion. It's never small talk. Even talk about the smallest matter is deep, considered, and important.

Simply? That's my favorite thing.

White bread ...

I asked a few good friends to check out our web site and give me some comments. It's new, so I expect lots of good feedback and suggestions, some we'll take and use, some we'll consider and not act upon.

One comment I received was on a statement on the site where we say:

"We know what excites you."

My friend's response was:

"I don't think so."

(as in, "Mark, you're an idiot, you can't possibly know what excites me, and this sure doesn't.")

And he then went on to make some very good suggestions for clarifying and improving much of the site. Many I'll implement.

But, I kept coming back to his comment above. It struck me in a way I could not explain, until I started thinking about writing here.

Different strokes for different folks I guess. What excites us about our property in Italy is the total sensory experience when we leave good old "white bread" Central Ohio for Fano, Le Marche, Italy. Everything changes ... everything. Just a few examples:

Background Buzz. Whenever we're in a place with other people, we tune into the background buzz ... the multiple conversations going on in Italian, a language foreign to us. Sure, I've been studying it for some time, and speaking it, but not to the point where that background buzz just fades to white noise like when in the US. Constant aural stimulation ... constant.

Eye Candy. You can say lots of things about Italy and Italians, but one thing you cannot say is that they are not the masters at making all things stylish and appealing to the eye. Everything. Spending time anywhere in Italy is visual sensory overload for a novice (i.e. non-Italian). Clothing. Pastries. Coffee. Architecture. Advertisements. Cars. Women. Men. Children. If it's not as appealing to the eye as it is to the taste, smell, touch, or whatever else (the heart maybe?), it just doesn't exist, because it can't. That wouldn't be Italian.

Scents. More things smell wonderful in Italy than any other country - sorry France. Even the garbage bags small great (they're scented, but with a fragrance that's so pleasing you want to take out the garbage). The people smell wonderful. The restaurants smell wonderful. And, oh my goodness, the bakeries, pastry shops, and cafes smell wonderful.

Our new apartment is right above a bakery and soon a new rosticceria. The smells coming from the bakery now are so wonderful, it's almost sinful. Go out on our terrace at 5 am, smell the intoxicating "profumo" of freshly baked bread, and hear the quiet opera playing on the radio as the staff goes about their chores. I can't even begin to imagine how this pleasure will be magnified once the rosticceria is operating!

So, actually, I do know what excites my friend, and it's none of what I've mentioned here. However, there's a great big world of people out there, some of whom are sitting on the edge of their seats saying to themselves (or their computer screens), "Yes! Yes! I know! I've experienced the same thing! Gosh, it's fantastic!"

They actually broke away from white bread for a time.

Il primo "post"

OK, so I have nothing to say except welcome! We will add what we can, when we can, that we feel is worthwhile to the world of adventurous travelers who have a desire to see the world, or perhaps relocate to a distant land. We're here for you, we understand you, and we are you!

Ciao ... Mark (o Marco in italiano!)