Pictures from Day 5, Monday, May 15, 2006 ...

Pictures from my furniture construction trip Day 5 (Monday, May 15, 2006) are here:

http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/day_five_pix.htm

With appropriate commentary here from this blog:

http://marcofano.blogspot.com/2006/05/furniture-construction-trip-day-5.html

This was more of a buying day and errand day than a construction day.

Enjoy!

Ciao ... Mark

MORE Pictures from Day 4, Sunday, May 14, 2006 > The Porchetta Sagra

Pictures from my sagra visit on Day 4 (Sunday, May 14, 2006) of my furniture construction trip are here:

http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/sagra_monterado_pix.htm

With appropriate commentary here from this blog:

http://marcofano.blogspot.com/2006/05/furniture-construction-trip-day-4_22.html

This is the sagra at Monterado, where they make some truly memorable porchetta ... and pasta dishes!

Enjoy!

Ciao ... Mark

Pictures from Day 4, Sunday, May 14, 2006 ...

Pictures from my furniture construction trip Day 4 (Sunday, May 14, 2006) are here:

http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/day_four_pix.htm

With appropriate commentary here from this blog:

http://marcofano.blogspot.com/2006/05/furniture-construction-trip-day-4.html

It doesn't look like much was accomplished, but getting that armadio together was a ton of work, let me assure you!

Enjoy!

Ciao ... Mark

Pictures from Day 3, May 13, 2006 ...

Pictures from my furniture construction trip Day 3 (May 13, 2006) are here:

http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/day_three_pix.htm

With appropriate commentary from this blog here:

http://marcofano.blogspot.com/2006/05/furniture-construction-trip-day-3_20.html

And yes, the clock picture does show almost 5:00 ... AM! I just worked and worked and lost track of time. Plus, 5AM Italian time is 11PM Ohio time, so I was still existing on an Ohio time schedule. Not good!

Enjoy!

Ciao ... Mark

Beware of Internet travel sites and message boards …

I feel the Internet is one of the greatest things that has ever happened to human beings. Where else can you have all of the collected knowledge of the world, for all of history, at your fingertips and available within milliseconds?

Really.

However, the open access and transparency of the Internet also lead to its abuse. I’ll use just one topic of example for this as it applies to this blog … recommendations on travel to Italy.

The main travel sites almost all have message boards. They also almost all have places where “articles” are published by those that are supposed to be "in the know” about travel.

Both of these aspects of travel sites need to be watched very carefully, and the information gleaned from them tested, questioned, and confirmed before you make decisions (and spend your hard-earned money) based on them.

Just this week, I’ve seen an article with tips on what to do and what not to do when traveling to Italy that was only about 70% accurate. Someone on a message board where it was being discussed even asked the question, “Has this guy ever been to Italy?” Good question. I’d say, yes, he probably has been, but has not spent much time there. Or, if he did, it wasn’t the Italy I, and the others on the message board, have visited. And the author professed to be some kind of “expert”. Experts like that you and I don’t need.

There are also many people on message boards who confuse opinion, limited experiences they’ve had, and their personal preferences, as FACTS. And, I find that the people who are most biased, or least informed, often are the most aggressive, assertive, and outwardly confident in their presentation. You want to believe them because how could they possibly be so confident and assertive and not be right?

My recommendation? Validate and cross-check every important piece of information you get from a “free” source on the Internet. Ask questions of the author. Ask others for their experience. Get a statistically valid sampling and go with the majority opinion.

Ask things like:

“How many times have you been there, how recently, and how long did you stay?”

“Where else have you been in Italy?”

“What’s a better solution that you’d recommend and why?”

“How do you know that?”

“Why do you say that?”

“What’s your source for that?”

“Who told you that?”

“When did you learn this?”

“Do you speak Italian? How well?”

“Do you like (fill in the blank) anyway?”

… the last one is a great question to ask when someone says something like, “The liver in Venice was awful!” … if they hate it at home, small chance they’ll like it in Venice!

I’ve seen plenty of people on message boards who provide incorrect information because they’re just so darned determined to give their “two cents” … even if it’s wrong, or a guess. Just be careful and confirm the veracity (or likely veracity) of your sources. Is it their opinion, or fact? If you want opinions, great. But get several, or many, and do the math yourself.

Here’s a great example. I stayed at this hotel in Rome several times. It’s great. But take a look at the reviews:

http://en.venere.com/hotels_rome/spagna/hotel_del_corso.html

Every review is 4 or 5 stars, except:

“Beds were uncomfortable, and breakfast area was noisy. The housekeepers were just horrible with the bathrooms, no fresh towels or soap etc. The location of the hotel was great, staff was nice. If a good night’s sleep is important, don't stay there. Mattress was torture, so low, just two feet off the ground!”

… and this one …

“The price was too high compared to the size of the room for 4 people. My children slept in a sofa instead of a real bed.”

If you read just these, you’d think this hotel was awful. But read the rest, and you'll see that these were reviews from … likely … picky pains-in-the-asses who would not be satisfied with anything, and you get a different picture.

Let me guess, 4 children in a room suggested for 2 people … to save money? I never saw any quad room listed. Hmmm …

By the way, what does the height of a bed have to do with its comfort?

You get my point … reader, beware! As a past US President once said, “Trust, but verify!”

Ciao ... Mark

http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/

Pictures from Day 2, May 12, 2006 ...

Here is a complete chronological set of pictures of the progress made on my first day (arrival day, May 12, 2006) of my furniture construction trip. I lost my baggage, and did not have it for this day. The only tools I had were a small set of "the basics" purchased from IKEA. It can be seen in one of the pictures.

See:

http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/day_two_pix.htm

The one massive pile got organized into smaller piles for each room rather quickly, and construction began in earnest. Not bad for a few hours of work ... well ... I believe it was more like 9 or 10 hours since I didn't go to bed until 2 or 3 AM! Too bad I was without "real" tools (defined as those with motors).

Enjoy!

-- Mark

Furniture Construction Trip >>> Day 9 (Friday, 19 May 2006) Travel day back to the US … (sob) … and the glamour of travel …

Wow, to sleep at midnight, up at 4:00 AM … it’s going to be a long day. Shower, straighten up, and take some last minute garbage and cardboard (will it ever end?) to the bins across the street. Bring the car to the front of the building and load up. As I’m leaving, the guys who work all night at the bakery next door are finishing up and having a smoke break. A quick “Buon giorno!” and off I go. A fill up of the rental car on the autostrada, a quick check-in of the luggage (good riddance), drop off the rental car, and still time for a chocolate-filled pastry and a cappuccino. Perfect!

The airport in Ancona (actually Falconara) is small but fully equipped. It’s spacious (separate terminals for arrivals and departures), has a great café, and also has a large duty free shop … not something you’d generally find in a similar sized airport in the US. You can show up 20 minutes before your flight with no worries. I only show up early to be able to grab a coffee and relax.

My flight plans take me from Ancona, to Munich, to Philadelphia (an airport I despise for its supreme inefficiency, poor layout, and a majority of incompetent, rude, lazy employees), and finally home to Columbus.

The flight to Munich is on time, and uneventful. Munich has a wonderful airport that I’ve flown through a number of times. It’s modern, clean (spotless), bright, spacious, and chic. The stores are awesome, even past security. I grab a ham and cheese pastry, a mineral water, and a beer … for an early lunch. Since the World Cup finals are in Germany this year, I buy a World Cup tee shirt at one of the stores. E14.50 … not a bad deal. In the US? It would be $25 easy … or more. Europeans just will not pay. Good for them.

Afterwards, in the gate area, it’s all I can do to stay awake … I am literally falling asleep on my feet. I’m afraid to sit … I’ll fall asleep and miss the flight.

Geez, do I notice the many OBESE people here. They’re all Americans. Not just chunky, not just overweight, not just fat … these people are OBESE. Goodness are Americans fat. I’m talking easily 100 pounds over suggested healthy weight. Men and women. Adults and kids. It’s a shame. And their weight, especially for the more elderly, makes them infirm. That’s why there are oh-so-many of those blasted beeping electric carts in US airports.

“Coming through!”

“Watch the cart!”

“Make way for the cart please!”

“Beep. Beep. Beep. Beep. Beep. Beep.”

I am so sick of those things, I now don’t move. Let ‘em wait. I normally walk as far to the right as I can be, and they’re trying to dodge other traffic and make me move. It’s like playing a video game, move left, move right, move wherever the cart driver wants you to move. Who dreamed this crap up anyway?

The electric carts used to be used to transport the handicapped, injured, or infirm elderly people only. Now? Take a look. Obese middle-aged people too lazy to walk to their next gate. We have a major problem with this in the US, and it’s costing us (you and me) billions in health care costs, lack of productivity, etc. We have to do something, although I’m not sure what. Still noodling on that. Maybe eat less garbage and exercise more? No, that would be too simple.

Same problem with those handicap parking passes. You know exactly what I mean. How often do the people with those passes look like they really need them? What a scam. It only hurts those people who really do have a need.

And, don’t get me started on the obese person who gets the economy seat next to me and “spills over” into my seat … half of my already-too-small economy seat. GET OFF MY LAP!

Finally, we board and I’m even able to find some room for my relatively small backpack in the luggage bin.

I am amazed by how much baggage people bring on board and then expect to shove into those bins. I’ve gotten pretty assertive with flight attendants around this. If I board later, and all the space is taken, I make it their problem to find me space for my meager carry-on backpack. It’s a bunch of baloney that they don’t enforce the baggage rules with any consistency. I regularly get asked to check a clearly “carry on” size bag on the smaller regional jets, when people on flights like this one from Munich to Philadelphia bring two wheeled suitcases each. I just don’t get it.

I am not very high on US airlines, or their flight attendant staffs. This trip, especially on USAir, I found the staffs to be downright nasty. And, I will say, nobody traveling was giving them a hard time. All of the passengers were polite and patient.

I was talking to a flight attendant while waiting to use the restroom on the flight from Munich to Philly when the pilot put on the fasten seatbelt sign. This witch of a flight attendant across the way almost screamed at me, “Get in your seat!”. Not, “Please get in your seat.” Not, “Please sit down, the seatbelt sign is on.” I know what she thought. She thought I was just one of those “galley lurkers” just chatting up the flight attendants, breaking the new TSA/FAA “no loitering” rules, when really, I needed to pee badly. And the guy in the can ahead of me must have been doing his taxes.

I started back to my seat and then I thought, “What am I doing? I paid $1,000 to be treated like this?” I went and relieved myself and then buckled in. I hope USAir goes into bankruptcy for good, and soon. They deserve it. And I hope that flight attendant ends up doing dishes in a greasy spoon to support herself. Customer service? Cordiality? Forget it on USAir.

I will say my Northwest Airlines flights on the way over were very good, and the flight attendant crew were all pleasant, professional, and helpful. A breath of fresh air. They just need to fix their unresponsive “elite flyer” call center issues. Thirty minutes with no response? Unacceptable.

Maybe Northwest can buy the assets of USAir and fire the flight attendants. I suggest no severance whatsoever.

In Philadelphia, after arriving on time, I had 90 minutes to get though immigration, collect my bags, get through customs, drop bags, go through security, and get to my flight, which showed on the monitor as being ON TIME. Plenty of time, right? Not in Philadelphia.

Immigration was slow, baggage took forever. Customs was nothing. The security for transfers in Philadelphia sucks. I can’t explain it any other way. They have a screwed up system that every other airport in America has figured out. I waited at least 45 minutes in a line-up to get through transfer flight security (for the third time … Ancona, Munich, and now Philadelphia). I am all for security … as much and as severe as possible. But how can every other airport in the world do a better job than Philadelphia? I believe it’s because they hire morons.

Once through security, I’m at the “A” terminal, and need to get to “F”. I have to take the shuttle bus, because it’s so darn far and I have no time. I’d prefer to walk, but it’s 5:26 PM and my flight still shows as ON TIME for 5:45 PM. I landed at 4:15 PM. It’s taken more than an hour to get from plane through transfer flight security. Almost 75 minutes actually. Unbelievable.

The bus driver is SLOW. He stops at places where there is clearly no traffic … which mystifies me and the other riders. Everyone is cutting it close because of the morons in security that can’t run a line-up. Everyone is murmuring. Everyone is impatient.

I finally get to my gate, and guess what? Flight’s been delayed for an hour. No flight crew. Aircraft is there, but no crew. This is like the 5th time in two years I’ve had this same problem with USAir. They didn’t know this until the flight departure time came and went? Could it be that they didn’t want to alert anyone so we wouldn’t switch to another airline and take revenue out of their pockets? Hmmm … when they say it’s not about the money, IT’S ALL ABOUT THE MONEY!

In any event, it looks like once they find a crew, we’re ready to go. I go have two beers at the bar right around the corner from the gate, make a few calls, download e-mail, and have a chat with the bartenders and my fellow travelers. Flight time arrives, crew is there, and we’re off.

Back in Columbus, although late, my bags make it … first time for a USAir flight in 5 flights I think. Bravo you dopes … you get it right 20% of the time!

Anyone who thinks travel is “glamorous” just hasn’t traveled enough.

Links to pictures of furniture construction trip > ARRIVAL

WHAT A MESS!!!

I promised pictures from my furniture construction trip. I 'll do these in chronological order. The link below is from the moment of my arrival at the apartment, about 5:00 PM on May 12, 2005:

http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/day_two_piles_pix.htm

The commentary from this blog entry gives some explanation:

http://marcofano.blogspot.com/2006/05/furniture-construction-trip-day-3.html

Thanks! Enjoy!

Furniture Construction Trip >>> Day 8 (Thursday, 18 May 2006) CRUNCH DAY!!! Time to panic …

I wake up in panic …lots to do, no time to do it. I even call Northwest Airlines to try to change my flight to Saturday or Sunday. I stay on hold 30 minutes and get no response. Their “elite flyer” service never picks up in this time. Crappy service. I hang up and start to prioritize to hit the necessities first, nice-to-haves second.

Priority one is cleaning. The place needs to be ready for renters, should we find some for June and July, when I leave. I start vacuuming and mopping and dusting like a madman. I’m making progress … and things start to look better … much better.

I haul “tons” of cardboard to the recycling bin this week, and half of it goes in today. And there’s still more to come.

I mopped the tile floors several times when I was here in March, but there is still a very fine, gritty, white dust from the plaster and stucco-like walls and ceilings. It is a bear to get off the floor. After a few more full moppings, I appear to have broken the back of the cleanup of the tile floors … finally.

I need to go grab a few items at the store. First, nuts and washers for the terrace umbrella, which were left out of the hardware packet that came with it. Then, storage containers to store “our stuff” in the box closet. One might think of this as an “owner’s closet” like in most seasonal rental apartments or condominiums, although just about every apartment building has these here. A hose, connectors, and nozzles for the terrace. Little things like that.

On the way there, I try to get the gas tank for the BBQ filled one last time. Success! I finally figure out the process. It’s not an exchange process, but you’re supposed to leave the tank one day, it’s sent to a service center, and it’s shipped back for pickup the next day. The attendant acts like we’re doing some kind of drug deal, tells me he’ll do it this one time, and fill it for me. E6.00 and I’m on my way. Now that I know the drill … no worries. My guess is that they test the tank at the center for safety purposes, which can’t be done at the gas station.

I get back to the apartment and continue cleaning like a crazy person. By 11:45 PM, I’m exhausted, but pretty much done. I’ve got to get up at 4 AM for a 6:45 AM flight to Munich, so I pack it in and hit the sack. I have no dinner but eat the remainder of a chuck of pecorino (and man, was it good) and a few glasses of wine.

I’d be remiss to finish this piece without adding something about the music I’ve listened to in order to make it through this week. I am a 47-year-old music freak. With my i-Pod jammed with thousands of songs (6,000+), I have quite a selection from which to choose. Thanks to Coldplay, Lynard Skynard, Randy Travis (gulp, I have no idea where that one came from, sorry!), OAR (a fabulous “new” band from my home town of Columbus, Ohio), Hootie & the Blowfish, Dave Matthews, James Blunt, The Fray (great new music), Oasis (why don’t I listen to them more often?), Matchbox 20, Vosco Rossi, and a bunch more I can’t remember, I made it through.

I also listened to RDS radio, which plays Italian Top 20 all day and all night (“cento percento … grande successo!” an inside joke) … which is radically different than US Top 20, let me tell you. I am no fan of Hip Hop (where did they get that name for it anyway?), and they’re just my kind of radio station. I have eclectic tastes in music, but get past the very few Hip Hop performers who do some mildly amusing crossover work and I get real tired of anything Hip Hop real fast. I can say that it is the only music I can’t stand to listen to … everything else, including country, heavy metal, classical, opera, techno, dance, blues, jazz, etc. etc. etc. are fine.

Oh yeah, here’s what the final result of all the work this week looks like:

http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/photo_gallery_rent.htm

What do you think?

Furniture Construction Trip >>> Day 7 (Wednesday, 17 May 2006): More buying, more construction …

This day would best be called market and administration day. I have a jam packed schedule.

First, I go to the market in Fano’s central piazza (Piazza XX Settembre) … it’s a twice weekly (Saturday and Wednesday) event. The entire center of town, overnight, becomes transformed into a huge superstore, or maybe better characterized as a super-sized amalgamation of a bunch of little specialty shops. Housewares, clothing, plants and flowers, shoes, linens, underwear, seeds … you name it, it can be found. The vendors have each staked out their own niche, and easily refer you to someone else if they do not sell what you desire.

The most amazing aspect of these market days is the timing. At night, walking home after dinner and gelato at, say, midnight, the piazza is empty and silent. Return at 9:00 AM the next day, and it’s full … with maybe 100 vendors each in their own 10’ x 10’ space, or larger. Then, by 2:00 PM, the piazza is empty again, but for a bit of trash that’s gone by day’s end. It’s like a magic trick … now you see it, now you don’t.

I pick up some stainless steel roasting pans, ash trays, pot holders/hot mitts, a doormat-type rug for the terrace (back) entrance, cushions for the seats of our wooden (hard!) kitchen table set, and a few other items.

I check at the bank for two things. Internet access to my account, and a debit (ATM) card. Neither is available now, but they tell me (5 times at least) when I’m back in August to check again … they feel it will be available at that time. My sense is that for what they call “external accounts” (owned by non-Italians), there is some lead time or hurdles they have to pass to provide me with these services. I am almost 100% certain that they will approve and provide in August … it’s just the way it is. No big deal for me, as long as they don’t mind seeing my face or taking my calls! Forget e- mail. Italians are very hit and miss (mostly miss) on e-mail.

Then, it’s off to the “big box” store area again for a large plastic table for the terrace, which has a nifty expansion feature, so I buy the extension leaf as well. Six chairs (although the expanded table will likely accommodate 12 people easily. Gas BBQ. Finding a tank for the BBQ proves to be a challenge … everyone is sold out. This might have to wait until August.

Then, it’s back home to meet an insurance agent to buy insurance for the property (very inexpensive). After that, a trip to our “notaio” (the land transfer agent that acts like two lawyers would in the US) to get our copies of the purchase documents and land registry documents.

On the way back from the notaio, I find a gas tank for the BBQ at a small hardware store, so that’s done. But pricey … E45. No deal there. But, man cannot live without his BBQ. At least not this man.

At the hardware, they direct me to a place (two actually) to get it filled, but every place points me somewhere else. They keep telling me it’s not legal for them to fill it, that they can only sell “wholesale”, which doesn’t make sense since they’re filling vehicles that run on propane. This is something I’m going to have to research, because it seems like lots of gas BBQs are being sold, yet gas for them is hard (impossible?) to find. A mystery!

I work until about 9 PM and go grab dinner at La Florida, a pizza place we love. It’s actually a complete restaurant, but they have some of the best pizza in Fano. I have a cold fish appetizer plate (my favorite … man-oh-man do I love those marinated fresh sardines!), and a pizza of onions and tuna. It is fabulous. I have a side of mixed vegetables (spinach, roasted potatoes, carrots, green beans) which is as good as anything I’ve ever had, yet very simple.

During dinner, I ask for a table positioned so I can watch the Champions League final between Barcelona and Arsenal. I like Barcelona because they (in my opinion) are the underdogs. I am a fighter for all dogs under, so this is normal for me. It seems the entire restaurant are Barcelona fans, and everyone, although you certainly can’t tell, is watching the game from the corner of their eyes. Many women stop in front of the TV, watch for a while, cheer, make some comment, and move on. To me, nothing is more attractive than a beautiful Italian woman “getting into” a soccer game. Such passion! Forget Italian lingerie; just give me a gal who likes sports. Shhhh … don’t tell my wife.

But, without soccer, give me that great Italian lingerie!

A half liter of white wine (“frizzante”), a bottle of water (“frizzante”) and then a trip for gelato and a limoncello to complete the evening.

Tomorrow, CRUCH TIME!

Furniture Construction Trip >>> Day 6 (Tuesday, 16 May 2006): Laundry, Construction, Dinner with “The Boys”

Tuesday, with only 3 days including today before leaving, becomes a day to get a whole bunch of work done. So, I try to hit it hard and make progress. I’m a bit concerned that I’ll end up not getting all of the things on my list completed, because every time I attack something another item gets added to the list. Most are trips to the hardware store (“ferramenta”) for odds and ends that just could not be expected.

First, it’s off to the store to knock some more purchases off the list. American style coffee maker (a must for my wife, at least once or twice a week when she’s here), side arm umbrella for the terrace, (2) oiled wood loungers and (2) sling chairs (“sdraio”) with cushions, for the terrace as well, and a whole bunch more odds and ends.

Then, a quick trip to the laundry (“lavanderia”) to pick up some bed sheets and a blanket that I left to be laundered last trip (March). Gosh, I love the way they wrap your laundry in Italy. It’s like taking a gift (“regalo”) home with you!

Then, to work on the final piece of furniture … the bed for the second bedroom. It’s a time consuming job because it’s a more complex piece of furniture. It’s a divan-style or day-bed-style bed, which has a neat expansion feature, as well as 3 large storage drawers underneath. The bed pulls out from a single, to a double, and the storage space is not impacted. It allows for more useful space in the room, except when sleeping. An awesome design by IKEA, and not all that expensive.

One of the things that’s readily apparent today is that having an apartment near the historic center complicates getting large purchases up to the apartment and terrace. First, you need to park near the place to make it as easy as possible. I our case, this means parking on the street where we’re really not supposed to park … although the Italians seem pretty lenient about this. You’re more likely to get ridicule from your neighbors (as I did, but just once), than receive a parking ticket.

Then, it’s the trudge up the stairs. In our case, only one floor to either the terrace (back entrance) or front door of the apartment. But, with a large load of heavy, awkward “stuff”, it’s a workout even if you’re in good shape!

After working all day, I took a shower and had a glass of wine and a cigar on the terrace while I waited for my dinner host to pick me up.

The builder of our apartment – “reconstructor” actually – has become a good friend of mine. The first trip I made back to Fano after we purchased the place was in December of 2005. It was really a trip to check on the progress of the reconstruction and buy a few things that needed to be bought (light fixtures, kitchen, etc.) for our builder to complete the place. Danielle is a hard working, honest guy who’s a self-made man. Drive with him through Fano and the surrounding area, and he’ll show you building after building that he’s either built or reconstructed. Right now, he has a big project underway in Senigallia, south of Fano. He’s also just bought a very large, old apartment in the heart of the historic center of Fano that he’s going to divide into two good-sized apartments.

In December, he invited me to go to one of his Tuesday “dinner with the boys”. He told me that this group (somewhere between 15 and 20 men) has been having dinner together every Tuesday night for 30 YEARS! They are a close group who come from varied backgrounds and business … politicians, doctors, innkeepers, builders, generals, heads of government departments, factory owners. What they’ve built, long before the word was even used in this manner, is a “networking group”.

When I first went in December, they welcomed me with open arms, and every time I go back, I have to be sure to make an over-Tuesday-night stay in order to attend. They’re a smart bunch of guys … all quick witted and good at debating large and small issues. I am very glad to have been accepted into their dinner circle, and hope I can continue to be a part as time goes by.

I’ve promised them an American BBQ in August, ribs really, made with my wife’s special rub and special sauce. We’ll combine this with pasta, and a few other Italian dishes, to make it a special night. I’m looking forward to this … but a bit nervous. The food we eat on Tuesdays is spectacular, local, and fresh. Still, they critique and rate the dishes, one by one, every time. I want to get a good review … especially since I’ve shared with them that I’m making the pasta sauce!

This night, we feast on pizza “ciclista” (just rosemary, olive oil, and salt), pickled vegetables (best I’ve ever had, hands down), cold cuts (salami, prosciutto, bresaola), strozzapretti (a pasta that literally means “priest chokers” or “priest stranglers”) primi, risotto primavera, mixed green salad, roasted meats, and a very savory dish of pork liver wrapped in bay leaves and then roasted. Top all of this off with a choice of desserts (“dolce”) – mine was panna cotta with a frutti di bosco sauce. Of course, coffee and a little nip of liqueur, and you can call it a night. All of this served in a sunroom-style location in the hillside overlooking a small, very green, valley.

Life is great. Especially for the “dinner circle” in Fano!

Furniture Construction Trip >>> Day 5 (Monday, 15 May 2006): More buying, more construction …

Monday was another day or buying, or should I say “procuring”, and construction. After a relatively reasonable night’s sleep, I got up at a normal hour (8:30 AM or so) and got started. I headed back to the stores to buy some more household items and to pick up some smaller things I missed on Saturday (like a coaxial cable for the TV). Floor fan, iron, ironing board, medicine-chest-like cabinets for the bathroom (which needs storage space), mattress covers, pillows, and other various and sundry household items.

I must comment on the level of service at both TRONY (electronics and appliances) and BRICO (hardware, tools, lighting, household goods, and outdoor furnishings). I would say the Italians put us to shame with the level of service at these stores.

After one trip to the TRONY store, every time I went back the people in each department greeted me, and told me they remembered me and what I had purchased (they were 100% correct). Maybe it was the fact that I was an American, speaking Italian, furnishing an apartment in their town that made me memorable, but it sure seemed like they gave this same attention to the Italians who were in the store.

BRICO was the same way, except I needed more help and got it. What anchors do I need to mount a TV on the (stone) wall? What drill bit can I use to drill through tile? Where do I find surround or framing material for the bathroom mirror which is “embedded” (like the tile surrounding it so that it’s flush with the wall)? Where do I get a tank for the gas BBQ grill, since you’re out of stock? Where do I get it filled? Where do I get copies of keys for the front door that require a special machine to be made? The customer service team at BRICO in Fano was superb! I got all my answers, they were patient with my Italian and lack of Italian hardware vocabulary, and they’ll have my business forever.

Once home, I got to watch the end of one stage of the Giro D’Italia, which was pretty neat. I’ve always been a cycling fan, but watching a broadcast in the home country of the race was a new experience. Listening to and watching the way the Italian announcers and producers put the programming together was interesting. Just like we take NFL Monday Night Football to a new level, so goes coverage of events like the Giro.

Construction-wise, it was a slow day. I did put together the coffee table for the living room, but that’s about it.

Furniture Construction Trip >>> Day 4 (Sunday, 14 May 2006) continued: La Saga di Porchetta in Monterado, Le Marche

The “sagra” is a tradition in many Italian towns. It’s a festival, town picnic, and street fair all wrapped up in one. Sagras typically celebrate a local food of the area that’s considered special by the town’s inhabitants, as well as others from miles (and sometimes miles and miles and miles) around. People will drive a long way to go to a favorite sagra. There are sagras for wine, olive oil, beef steak, mushrooms, artichokes, cheese – you name it, there’s a sagra for it somewhere.

Monterado is a very quaint little hill town in Le Marche, about 10km, as the crow flies, east of Senigallia. It’s very tiny … just one small piazza and a few side streets. The sagra is all about the porchetta that’s prepared in Monterado. It’s made from roast suckling pig. As one on the Marche’s English-language web sites explains this sagra:

"Roast sucking pig is a local dish which was included in the list among local productions of the Marche. It is the protagonist of this festival which made Monterado famous.
Monterado is a small and nice town of the hinterland and it is situated in the Val Casano, near the province of Pesaro.

During the festival there are some exhibitors who show their products, salami and truffles but the main dish is with no doubts roast sucking pig. It is huge, weighs 9 quintals and it is prepared according to a special method which makes its taste and aroma one and only. The roast sucking pig of Monterado is dry, fragrant and has a very little greasy part; moreover, its particular taste is due to the way it is dressed and cooked … in the wood-burning oven like in the past."

During the festival there are musical shows all afternoon long and during the evening there is an exhibition of cars and agricultural implements.

from:
http://prodottitipicimarche.com/EN/sezioni/SchedaFiera.asp?IDPRODOTTO=122)

I got there about 5:30 in the afternoon, and had to park way down the hill from the town because there were just so many people and so many cars, but very little parking available.

I walked into town, past the street fair where vendors were selling everything from lawn mowers to barbeques. As I turned up the street and into the piazza, I saw just a sea of people. At one end of the piazza was a stage with a band playing some contemporary music. At the other end, two or three large tent-like structures with tables and benches. There was a drinks tent, and a food tent, along with a “cassa” or cashier. The menu was extensive and superb. Pastas, meats, cheeses … I’m disappointed I forgot to grab a copy of the menu off of one of the tables.

I quickly scanned the menu and made my selection. Like with many places in Italy, you had to go to the cassa first, pay for your food and drink, receive tickets, and then use the tickets at the food tent or drinks tent.

I had a bowl of passatelli con tortufo which was incredible (with cheese). I also had a porchetta panino. I washed this down with a glass of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba (white) … all for E11.50 … quite a deal. It was clear I was one of the few foreigners attending, so I got some special treatment from the very nice woman who was taking tickets and running for food. My Italian is pretty good, but I still have a bit of an American accent when speaking it … especially when pronouncing the double consonants. I don’t do it quite like an Italian, but my tutor here in Ohio, who is an Abruzzo native working on his PhD in Philosophy at Ohio State, is helping me with this. I still can’t pass the sniff test when in Italy, but I hope I’m getting better. Such is life.

I spent some time taking pictures of the town, the sagra, and the people, as well as listened to the music and tried to watch a dance exposition by a local (ballroom style) dance school. Ballroom dancing is HUGELY popular in Italy, so the crowd was such that I had a hard time getting close enough to see anything, let alone take any pictures.

For a list of the sagre (plural of sagra) in Le Marche, see:
http://prodottitipicimarche.com/EN/default.asp?IdSezione=10

I then took a leisurely ride home, and went back to work. By night’s end, I’d completed the crazy armoir (5 drawers, 6 shelves, 1 hanger bar, 3 doors, and handle hardware), had a glass (or three) of wine, grabbed some gelato (frutti di bosco/coco), and got to bed at a reasonable (before 2:00 AM) hour. Time was flying by.

Furniture Construction Trip >>> Day 4 (Sunday, 14 May 2006): Armadio Construction Day & La Saga di Porchetta

Wow, did I sleep in … until a bit after noon … but I needed the rest and recovery. Unfortunately, sleeping on this schedule avoided the inevitable resetting of one’s internal clock that comes with time zone changes and results in jet lag. I was still sleeping and waking on Ohio time … not good!

Since I planned to go to the Sagra di Porchetta at Monterado Sunday afternoon, I had to get cracking to make up for sleeping in. A quick pot of espresso made in the small stove-top pot (“caffettiera”), some water, and off to work. I’m saving my appetite for porchetta and whatever other culinary delights await me at the sagra, so food is a no-no until later.

Because of the construction of older Italian buildings like ours, there are usually no closets. So, one must buy an armadio in which to store clothing. We bought the largest unit we could fit into the space available … we spent several days after a scouting trip to IKEA in Bologna (where we picked out what we liked, and took all the measurements, but did not buy anything) just planning out the use of space and making sure everything we wanted to purchase would actually fit into the rooms for which the items we selected were designed. Until we laid everything out, to scale, on paper, we really didn’t know what would work.

CAUTION: I highly recommend you also take this approach if you buy a smaller foreign property. It will save you lots of time, frustration, money, and displeasure! Don’t forget to consider the heights of your ceilings!

The armadio we selected is tall … I would guess about 7’ tall. It’s 150 cm wide (about 60” if my conversion calculation is correct). The two main boxes from IKEA – the actual cabinet units – were almost 120 pounds each – one unit 50 cm in width, another 100 cm in width. Working on my own, it was plenty of exercise moving the boxes they came in and it was a necessity to open them up and work with each piece of each unit separately – some probably 40 to 45 pounds each, and unwieldy. Getting them unpacked, and moved into the room where they were to be constructed, while working with the limited space available because I had already put the bed together, was a mental and physical challenge.

The units had to be constructed in the bedroom, because when constructed, I’m almost certain even the smallest unit would not have fit out the door and down the hall.

Out the window (second floor, “primo piano”)? Maybe.

I was drenched with sweat after only an hour of labor … and I did the smallest unit first!

The second unit was a greater challenge. Bigger and heavier. Plus, I now had even less room because unit number one was in the way.

I had a construction mishap with the second unit. When I went to flip it up when it was partially constructed (as the directions ordered), I did not have someone to help me. Because of this, the bottom section literally ripped the anchors out of the side of the unit as I tried to tip it up. Since it’s pressed wood construction for the sides, top, and bottom, the anchors will only take so much pull … and then they let go … as they did in my case. If I had thought about this possibility, I could have tipped it up from a different angle and better supported the bottom panel. But, I didn't! Must have had too much porchetta on the brain!

Luckily, I’m a pretty handy guy, and had my tools with me. I also had surplus hardware, and designed a quick repair that will hold better than the original anchors supplied by IKEA. The good news is that it was a mistake that only cost about 20 minutes of repair time.

By 4 PM I had the two units constructed and located in their final resting place. This was just two units with sides, back, top, and bottom. Not much to look at or be able to say one had accomplished much, but I figured this had broken the back of the hardest work I had to do (except find gas for the BBQ – more on that later).

I punched out, took a shower, and drove to Monterado for some porchetta. I felt like I could eat a whole pig.

Furniture Construction Trip >>> Day 3 (Saturday, 13 May 2006): Day 3 continued …

I apologize for the interruption in the publishing of my blog. When I started working on the apartment in Fano, I just jumped in and started working, and working, and working. To get done what I needed to get done I realized, early on, that I needed more time than I had planned. Timing in Italy is different. People and stores are just as responsive, it’s just that their schedules are different. The afternoon closure for what I call siesta (lunch really, but an extended lunch, with nap maybe?) screws me up … like needing some nuts and washers to put the umbrella together because some parts were missing from the hardware bag that all “put-it-together-yourself” items seem to have these days. I took a break and walked to the hardware store, only to find it closed. I just plain forgot. Not their problem, my lack of memory. I need to learn to work with their schedule better … I still tend to think and work on a US schedule.

Anyway, I had to prioritize what needed to be finished the most urgently, and furniture, appliances, and cleaning came before writing. But now, I’m back at it … although a bit delayed. Thanks for your understanding and patience.

I was all turned around with my days. Day 1 was Thursday; start of travel. Day 2 was Friday; arrival day without bags (“sensa bagagli”). Saturday was a work day, with the trip to the airport in Ancona/Falconara to recover my bags (as well as the key debacle). I had to go back and edit my last posting to reflect the proper day. It appears Friday was a blur of travel, no sleep, and time change. Not hard to imagine.

I neglected to mention in the last posting that the Internet service previously installed by FASTWEB, with the help for technician (“tecnico”) access to the apartment of my friend Enrico upstairs, worked like charm. Plug in, fire up, no worries. It worked flawlessly the entire week. Perfection!

Saturday was a beautiful day. I spent the first part of the day putting together the buffet for the living room/cooking corner combination room. The buffet has (9) nine drawers, which meant it took a long, long time to construct. The buffet is necessary because the cooking corner area is very small. Also because of the way our apartment is laid out, and because of the constraints presented by old Italian buildings made of concrete, stone, and block walls. Cabinet space in the kitchen unit (“la cucina”) is minimal, so a buffet for storing dishes, pots and pans, and everything and anything else imaginable, is a must.

I had to interrupt construction of the buffet to shoot back to the airport to pick up my bags, which was a breeze. I was lucky to get them as quickly as I did.

On the way back from the airport, I hit the local “big box store” area in the industrial zone just outside of Fano (“zona industriale”). At least the Italians are smart enough to put them in an area with all the other necessary eyesores (near manufacturing plants and warehouses), and not allow them to be dropped right into the middle of the community as we have in Dublin, Ohio. There, you will find a large hardware store, BRICO, which I would liken to a smaller version of our Home Depot stores (maybe one-quarter to one-sixth the size), a TRONY, which is like our Best Buy stores, an Auchan, which is like our Wal-Marts or Meijer stores, as well as a bunch of other higher-volume, lower price competitors covering product lines that range from food and beverages (including wines, beers, and liquors), to clothing, to furniture, to house wares. You can probably get anything you need at some store along this strip that’s maybe a kilometer or two long.

I picked up a TV (20” flat screen to mount on the wall or back of the buffet at some point, to preserve precious work space.), DVD player, CD/radio combination, wireless router, and ink jet printer/copier/scanner combination. All at prices comparable to the US.

I returned and after completing the buffet, which I needed to have in place to have somewhere to put the TV (for now), I unpacked all the electronics, got them wired and working, and then went back to furniture construction. I started on the kitchen table and chairs (6 of them). At 9 PM I took a break, showered, and went to dinner at a local seafood restaurant where I had an awesome meal of a pasta starter (“primi”) with prawns, and an entrée (“secondi”) of a local fish called coda di rospo (I understand in the US we would call it monkfish). It has a firm white flesh that holds up well when roasted (doesn’t get too soft or too dry). It was roasted, with vegetables. Fantastic. Topped off the eating part of the night with some gelato and a limoncello at a great gelato bar (the “Bon Bon Art Café”).

Afterwards, more furniture construction … until almost 5 AM Italy time (11 PM Ohio time, which is why I could do this without falling over from exhaustion). By this time I had finished the table and chairs. The table is a cassette-type table. Two big attached sections that fold down to save space, with a smaller middle section that is always open. The sets of legs rotate to support the two larger sections. You can use the table completely folded for two people. Partially unfolded for 4 or 5 people. Fully unfolded for 6 to 8 people (depending on how close you want family or friends to be at the table!). It’s one of the neat designs necessary for Italian (and other locations in the world where space is at a premium) living, to make as much use of space as possible. We’ll also use it folded as an island (peninsula) workspace when cooking.

As I slid into bed, I was pleased. I had gotten quite a bit accomplished. There was plenty more to do, but I felt I was about on schedule. I decided to not set the alarm and sleep in. I needed a good sleep after staying up until almost 5 AM.

Furniture Construction Trip >>> Day 3 (Saturday): Here (sort of)

It’s 6:33 AM in Columbus; 12:33 PM here in Fano.

I made it into Ancona from Milan right on time. As would be expected, no bags. Didn’t see that one coming.

However, rental car is brand new Fiat Croma (small station wagon). I have plenty of hauling room for whatever else I still need to procure.

The drive to Fano, normally about 20 minutes, took a bit longer as they are resurfacing the autostrada and have a lane closed … one of two. I immediately notice that drivers are more polite here … alternating (sort of) to get over for the construction. No honking, no flipping the bird, no cutting people off. But, don’t hesitate when someone gives you an opening. Like Shumy, ya gotta go for it the millisecond the opening is available, or they’ll know immediately you’re a foreigner. For more Italian driving commentary, see my blog entry here:

http://marcofano.blogspot.com/2006/04/driving-in-italy.html

When I arrived at the apartment, it was jammed with boxes and the two couches we bought from IKEA. Just jammed. Pictures later.

So I went to work. So far, two couches unpacked, boxes moved to their respective proper rooms, master bed constructed (I even slept in it … very firm mattress … heavenly!), and a good start on the buffet for the living room/kitchen area.

I worked from arrival straight through until 9:00 PM or so. Showered, and prepared to go out for what I thought was a quick pizza and a gelato.

I then proceeded to lock myself out of the apartment by picking up the wrong set of keys! This is a MAJOR problem in Italy, as Italians are totally paranoid about their personal security. Every door is like a bank vault door (I do not exaggerate). I’ll post a few photos of the door later. You’ll be able to see the multiple hardened carbon steel bolts that run along each side of the door. No way to pick those babies unless you’re a member of the Oceans Eleven (or Twelve) team.

Luckily, the brother of our real estate agent who lives above us had a key … but it was at his office and he was home alone with a sick 1-year-old. So, his dear sister, our agent, at 11:00 at night went to their office and then brought the key to me at the restaurant. How much sweeter can someone be … and I’m a complete foreigner. I need to buy her a small gift as a token of appreciation … she saved my bacon.

After dinner, where I met 3 Americans in two separate incidents (very rare here … more on this later), I went back to the apartment and worked until 4 AM … too wired to sleep. Packed it in a 4, and slept through until noon … a solid 8 hours of sleep after almost none for 48 hours. Was awoken by a security guard at the airport calling to let me know my bags are in! Va benne! So, it’s off to the airport to grab the bags and have everything I need to knock of the zillion items on my to-do list.

A presto …

Ciao … Marco

Furniture Construction Trip --> Day 1: Travel Day(s)

8:26 AM EDT – As anyone who travels to Europe knows, most flights to Europe leave in the early evening (6:00 PM to 8:00 PM local time here), and arrive in Europe sometime in the early morning of the next day. Lucky me, however, has a ticket that requires four (4) flights to get where I want to go. I’m writing this Thursday morning (May 11). My travel plans start at 1:30 PM eastern daylight time, and end at 3:40 PM Italian time tomorrow, when I arrive in Ancona in LeMarche. My trip takes me from Columbus, Ohio, to Detroit, to Amsterdam, to Milan, to Ancona. I’ve got two large bags of “stuff” I’m taking with me, each right at about the 50 lb. limit. Care to bet whether they’ll make it to Ancona with me?

12:19 PM EDT – I’m at the Columbus airport. I’m listening to a group next to me talk about losing weight. They’re talking about the diets they are on. It’s all talk about what to eat or not eat. Not one comment about exercise or increasing activity to lose weight. The Italians have it right … eat regular, balanced meals in an amount that satisfies, walk everywhere, consume moderate alcohol and sweets, and stay away from saturated fats – use that fabulous olive oil they produce for everything that one would “normally” use butter or other fatty-fats for. Simple. Tasty. Proven. Fad-free. I don’t even have to leave the US to contrast the differences between our two cultures.

Oh yeah, already my first flight is scheduled to be at least 30 minutes late leaving Columbus. My connection in Detroit isn’t too tight, so the ticket agent tells me I’m still OK. We’ll see.

7:00 AM Friday – Amsterdam Schiphol Airport – the flight from Columbus to Detroit got out just in time for me to make the connection for my flight to Amsterdam. A bit of excitement when we got to Detroit – the jetway would not move to the plane when we landed, so we were delayed 20 to 30 minutes at the gate, well after being on the ground. I barely made a 4:05 PM connection, and we were supposed to be in at around 2:30 PM (if we had been on schedule). There were plenty of unhappy campers who missed connections. I’ve felt their pain. So, it’s a beer (or two) here for breakfast, with no sleep but about 30 minutes on the flight over … wired I guess. Today (Friday), is going to be a long, long day. Especially when the lack of sleep hits. I am really looking forward to a porchetta sagra in Monterado (in Le Marche) Saturday and/or Sunday. If you’ve not had porchetta, you’ve missed one of God’s gifts to man on earth.

Wonder where my bags are right now?

My flight to Milan (3rd of 4 legs, yikes!) appears to be on time. Maybe, just maybe, I’ll get lucky. Oh yeah, the Heineken draft is great for a nightcap/breakfast depending on what time zone you’re in … if you care …

… to be continued …

Taking the easy way out?

Today, I’m on my way to Italy. My plan is to visit our apartment in Fano, where 42 boxes from IKEA await me. Our apartment is new, and the boxes represent all of the furniture for inside the apartment. Except for a sleeper (pull out) couch and a love seat, which were delivered ready-to-go. Everything else, as you’d expect with IKEA, needs to be put together. Fun, ehh?

Internet and digital TV are supposed to be ready as well – from FASTWEB. Hopefully ADSL works better in Italy than in the US. SBC (now AT&T) couldn’t get it right for weeks at our offices a few years back, so we switched to business cable Internet access.

I’m going to chronicle my trip here. It will be from the perspective of the differences, good and bad, that I notice while in Italy.

As I prepared yesterday with packing and such, my level of excitement for the trip grew. My goal is to leave in a week and have the apartment 100% inhabitable by anyone who visits, or anyone who might rent it from us. I have a renter set to be there June 1, as well as some friends who will be staying there a few nights in very late May, so this is not an option. It needs to be done.

I also need to get furniture for the terrace, which is almost as large as the apartment itself. Plus, I need to do some banking chores, insurance chores, etc. I’m sure there will be plenty of material for my blog from these tasks alone.

See about halfway down the page here:

http://www.italianrealestateassist.com/irea_picture_gallery_1.htm

… and you’ll get a good sense for the size of the terrace.

Because I travel over so frequently, I fly economy to save some dough. Flying economy is most often a drag, because it’s hard to get into a comfortable position to sleep. I’ve found a new “device” to help with this, so I’m anxious to try it out. If it works, I’ll review it here and share its benefits with you. If it doesn’t, I’ll tell you that as well!

I expect the flights will be packed. It was hard to get a ticket at all, and impossible to get a cheap ticket. Frequent flyer ticket? Ha ha … that’s a joke.

It appears that Americans are going to Italy this spring and summer. It looks like foreign travel has recovered very nicely in the post-9/11 era. It also seems that Americans are dealing with (or ignoring) the poor exchange rate for Euro. Our dollar, which was once at $0.85 for E1.00 is now at about $1.27 or $1.28. It’s been over $1.30 before, which is not good for travelers, but we seem to go anyway!

My ticket cost $976, which is a pretty fair deal considering I bought it with only about a month’s lead time. And about $33 of that is Orbitz services fees … paper ticket shipping … etc. I see that people getting tickets for this summer are paying about $1,300 (on average) as the minimum for an economy ticket. If someone wanted to join me today, they would pay $2,000+ for a last minute ticket. Booking early pays (or saves, as the case may be). And forget about using frequent flyer points – unless you’re prepared to use 100,000 or more for a ticket (the “go anytime” kind of thing). Frequent flyer programs are a huge scam, in my humble opinion. There’s about (1) one seat available for frequent flyer point use on any one flight, and it seems to always be taken! Just another way the airlines have demonstrated poor customer service and poor business management, which is why they’re all in bankruptcy. Sure, I realize gas prices are up, etc., etc., but why are they the only industry hurting so badly from it? Why? Because their management teams are incompetent. I’ll do a rant blog on this sometime soon.

In any event, I’ll chronicle here my trip, and hopefully have some entertaining and informative material for you.

BTW, if anyone has anything that they’d like me to pay particular interest to, or write about as a topic, please let me know. You can send me a “comment” here, which I have to moderate before posting to the world. Also, let me know whether you want the question or topic posted, or whether you want me to keep it personal.

You can also go to the Italian Real Estate Assist web site:

http://italianrealestateassist.com

… and send me an e-mail via the “Contact Us” page, where you’ll find an information request e-mail address.

Ciao … Mark (o Marco)

I’ll speak Italian, you speak English. OK?

Many Italians speak and/or understand English. They do differ from Americans in their use of any foreign language, and knowing this will help you communicate better when in Italy, whether you know Italian or not.

Most Americans are not shy about using any foreign language, or even just a few foreign words for that matter, when they travel. If they know it – or simply feel they know it – they’ll use it. Often poorly … very poorly. Italians, on the other hand, will tend to not speak a foreign language unless they are very accomplished at it. They prefer to not be embarrassed. We couldn’t care less!

This can complicate communication for visitors to Italy who can speak some Italian … as well as non-Italian speakers.

The way around this is to do one of two things.

One, use your Italian, no matter how poorly, but make people aware that you know you speak it poorly by saying something like, “Mi scusi, ma io non parlo italiano molto bene.” Translated as, “Excuse me, but I do not speak Italian very well.” Often, the person you’re speaking with will respond, in English, that you speak Italian better than they speak English. Then, you can respond that this is not true, they speak English better than you speak Italian. Cap it off with, “I’ll speak Italian for practice, and you speak English for practice, and we can both get better.” I have never had someone respond negatively to this offer.

Two, just let them know that you speak no Italian, and if they speak any English, you would appreciate them helping you out by trying. That it would be a big help to you. I have found that Italians are curious, but are not very intrusive. They will always lend you a hand, but it is best to ask for help because they don’t want to appear like they are “butting in”. But ask for help, and you’ll get it. As much as you need.

Improving communication, however it happens, will make your travels more enjoyable.

Renting an apartment or house in Italy for vacation …

If you’re like us, we prefer to rent apartments or houses when we travel to Italy. To use as a home base for day trips, or to be able to have a more local Italian experience with cooking, dinner parties, etc. Heck, we enjoyed it so much we bought one!

There are a few things to watch for, be prepared for, beware of, or be sure to check on, when you rent an apartment in Italy. A few are:

____________________________________________________________


Bed sheets (linens) or no bed sheets (linens).
Many apartment rentals do not include bed sheet (linens) or towels … especially if they are not set up to appeal to the American market. You’ll want to check this out ahead of time, and either take your own, or be prepared to hit the local market and buy the there.

Washer? Maybe. Dryer? Doubt it.
Many apartment rentals will include access to a clothes washer. This could be right there in the house or apartment or in a communal basement or garage area where the owner of the apartment has their own lock off area.

Finding a rental with a dryer is unlikely. Italians are really just starting to find dryers popular. Utility costs are high, so dryers are a financial luxury. As well, with Italian construction, venting a dryer to the outside is very difficult and expensive (and may not be legal by local code). Therefore, the dryers we’ve seen all have a water collection mechanism that you have to empty from time to time. Essentially, the dryer is self contained … a closed system.

Air conditioning? Unlikely, but getting more popular.
Air conditioning used to be almost non-existent in rental apartments and houses 10 years ago. Now, it seems that the newer technology, higher efficiency “transom” type air conditioners are much more popular. If this is a necessity for you, ask.

Dishwasher? Doubt it too.
We rank dishwashers right up there with clothes dryers. Highly unlikely you’ll find a rental with one. Get ready to use the “scolapiatti” (dish drying rack) in the cabinet(s) above the sink.

Shower/bath drainage.
Because of the age of many building and the construction materials used, you’ll find that drainage of waste water from sinks, showers, and bathes is often slow … sometimes very, very slow. We’ve often ended a quick (and I mean quick) shower standing in 6” of standing water.

Heat / hot water.
Many Italian homes are heated by hot water radiator heat systems. The hot water heater warms both the water for the heating system, as well as for the bath, shower, and tap. Because of space limitations, these are often very small units. Thus, you can run into hot water shortages while a heater recharges or heats water. Solution? Shower fast and don’t waste water.

Fridge / freezer – likely. Ice cube trays? Maybe not.
Most apartments will have a combination refrigerator and freezer. Some though may not have a freezer unit. Best to confirm. Since Italians tend not to use as much ice in beverages as Americans do. You may find no ice cube trays or only one small one available for your use. The solution here is to either bring a tray (or two) with you, or buy one or two at the local market on arrival.

Beds … comfortable or uncomfortable … big or small?
We’ve found rental apartment beds to be a real crap shoot. Some are so comfortable you want to sleep all day. Others, not so comfortable. On average, a standard American double bed is about the biggest bed you’ll find in Italy (in most rentals) … and often these are really two twin (single) mattresses put together on a double bed frame. If you’re accustomed to a queen or king bed at home, and are a sleeper who likes to make use of the real estate, be prepared to adjust.

Utility surcharge.
You may find that the rental charges for an apartment or house rental during months when heat is necessary or air conditioning is available comes with a surcharge for gas and/or electric consumption. This is because utility charges in Italy are dear, and the owner of the rental prefers to know that a renter’s consumption will be covered. This is not a scam, but rather a way to know that if you prefer to crank up the heat with all the doors and windows open, and I prefer to keep the heat off and wear a sweater (or two) that we’re charged fairly.

Final Cleaning Fee.
Some apartment rentals require you to pay a final cleaning fee that can be a flat rate (like E50) or a fee based on occupancy (like E20 per person). Often, this is a fee based on the work that has to be done to prepare the apartment for the next rental. Rather than give you a bundled price (one complete charge for everything), the owner or rental manager has decided to break up the charges accordingly. This, in fact, may be what the actual charge is to that owner or manager for the cleaning person or service they use.

____________________________________________________________


This is certainly not the exhaustive list of items, but it’s a good start. Send me an e-mail or leave a comment if you have any questions about renting a place in Italy that I haven’t covered.

Buon viaggio!

They all know English … well, almost all …

Many visitors to Italy make the incorrect assumption that because an Italian does not respond to their English, or tells the visitor that they don’t speak English, that the Italian means they know no English. This is an easy mistake to make. Especially since most Americans speak but one language. Most of the time, what the Italian means is, “I do not feel I speak English very well, so I’m not going to speak it with you because I would be embarrassed.”

I have watched some “brutti Americani” (Ugly Americans) make this mistake in a restaurant. They try to speak English and get no response in English from a waiter or waitress. Then, they start talking poorly about the waitperson, or the establishment. Watching the response of the Italian as a third party who knows a bit about this, it’s clear that the waitperson does understand English, and understands exactly what’s being said about them by people who think they’re doing so “behind the back” of the Italian.

Let’s face it, Americans aren’t the only people that do this, and it doesn’t just happen to Italians. It happens to Americans when foreign visitors come to the US. I’ve seen it. I also had it happen to me in Venice when I was asking a ticket seller for the vaporetto which line to take to Murano. I spoke a sentence in both Italian and English combined because I had heard her speak English. She (wrongly) assumed I was just trying a few words in Italian to show off … and told her coworker this. I responded in pretty darn good Italian, “Io non parlo italiano bene, ma io sento italiano moto bene.” Which is translated as, “I don’t speak Italian very well, but I hear Italian very well.” Her response was a quick flip of the head (or maybe the nose) upward, as if to say that I was an a%% for catching her.

Hmm … but then again, that's Venice ... too many tourists, too much rudeness ... what was I to expect?

Back on point … we can’t fix all the problems in the world, although we Americans will die trying. But, maybe by knowing this little tidbit about Italians we Americans can show a bit more graciousness when visiting their country. And this same theory would apply to any other country as well. Be kind, be patient, be understanding, act like a guest (which you are) … and assume anything you say can be understood by someone nearby, because it likely can. As our grandmothers told us, “If you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all.” Or, at least don’t say it until you’re safely locked in your hotel room or rental … but only if you must.

Best if you can avoid doing so altogether.

Italians & their alcohol consumption …

There is a tendency for first time visitors to Italy to be prepared for a high level of alcohol consumption on their trip. In my opinion, this comes from two perspectives.

One, Italian wines have been seen as some of the best in the world. In the US, one can pay dearly ($100 a bottle and up) for fine Barolos, Barbarescos, Amarones, and Brunellos.

Second, Italians have been mentioned in numerous media as some of the greatest consumers of wine, on a per capita basis, in the world. Which is true. The Office International de la Vigne et du Vin (OIV) reported that in 2001 Italians were surpassed only by the French in per capita consumption of wine. The operative word here is WINE.

However, what will surprise many is that Italians, on a per capita basis, do not consume much alcohol at all. And, it appears what they consume is primarily wine, and wine primarily with meals.

The Statistical Yearbook of the Economic Commission for Europe 2003, published by the UNECE arm of the United Nations, showed Italians as being the 22nd greatest consumer of alcohol on an annual per capita basis in the study area of Europe and Western Asia.

From the report, the top 10 consumers, in descending order, were:

• Republic of Moldova
• Luxembourg
• Portugal
• Ireland
• Czech Republic
• France
• Slovenia
• Germany
• Slovakia
• Croatia

And, from 1985 to 2000, total per capita annual alcohol consumption actually fell about 35% in Italy.

From our experience, most Italians are very careful about their health (except for smoking) and their alcohol consumption. In my 10+ years of travel to Italy, I have yet to see an inebriated (drunk) Italian. I’m sure they exist; I just haven’t seen one or been with one.

My Italian friends tell me it would be a huge embarrassment for an Italian to be seen in his or her community intoxicated (DRUNK). Plus, they tell me that Italians don’t feel the need to consume alcohol to feel good or lower their inhibition level to be able to socialize. Bravo!

This is not to say that you won’t see tanked individuals in Italy. What it does say is that when you do, you can be virtually certain they are foreign tourists or other foreigners (immigrants).

The quickest way to be picked out as one who “fa una brutta figura” – translated as “makes an ugly or bad-looking figure” or “displays bad form” – would be to consume too much alcohol and get loud and obnoxious because of same. So, if you’d like to blend in, not draw negative attention, and make a “bella figura”, I recommend moderate alcohol consumption while in Italy. You feel better, and you’ll “figura” better.

Ciao … Marco

The Stare …

Prediction: This is an entry that’s going to upset more than a person or two, but that’s OK.

When I first started writing this blog, I feared that I would run out of “material” to write about rather soon. After all, how many interesting topics are there to write about that are informative, useful, and at least a bit captivating?

After spending some time reading the foreign travel and “Move to a Foreign Country” message boards, I’m convinced I’ll have some great material for many years to come!

It might not be about Italy directly, but about how non-Italians react to the differences in culture when spending time in, or moving to, Italy.

Here’s just one example …

Italians are a curious lot. They’re also a confident lot. When was the last time you met an introverted Italian? Think hard. See what I mean?

They will, man, woman, or child, “check you out” with an unbreakable, unembarrassed, stare.

Many non-Italians are thrown off by this.

In the US, a stare like one sees in Italy would be grounds for assaulting someone, as in, “Judge, the guy kept staring at me, so I beat his a%%.”

I’d love to know when this started. Probably about the time we were convinced by fast food advertisers that we needed everything in life “our way” or that “[we] deserve a break today”. Just because we’re us.

The “Me” generation(s). The “selfish” generation(s).

In Italy, the stare is an art form. It’s usually (I’d say 100% of the time) a stare and review of fashion and beauty – they’re interested in how you’re put together, what you’re wearing, how you’re “shaped”, and your physical appearance.

It’s not lewd. It’s not (meant to be) rude. It’s not surreptitious. It’s just a stare. Think of it as a stare of appreciation.

Get used to it, because it’s a part of Italian culture that I am certain will never change. And, I hope it doesn’t. It makes life so much easier. We see a beautiful woman or handsome man in a café; we can look to our heart’s content without fear of: 1) assault; 2) chastisement; 3) ostrification. We won’t be beaten up, we won’t be reprimanded, we won’t be looked upon as heathens. Heck, we might even get a smile back at us to brighten our day. So what’s wrong with that?

But, one must “do” this stare like Italians. It’s a stare like one would use looking at a fine painting in a museum. It’s not the stare of the slovenly drunk jerk at the bar in America when anything with two legs and two X chromosomes walks into the joint. It is a stare of appreciation of beauty, style, carriage, curiosity. Period.

What’s entertaining to me is how unnerving this stare is to some non-Italians, and how they’re unwilling, unable, or just too ignorant to realize that it’s a cultural thing that they’re not going to change. Moreover, they shouldn’t try because if they do, they run the risk of appearing to be a “brutto Americano” (Ugly American) or “brutto starnieri” (Ugly Foreigner).

Some example comments (about staring) from the public domain, paraphrased to protect the guilty:

“An elbow to the ribs plus a stomp on the toes will fix this. When word gets out, people will be crossing the street to miss you.”

Way to spread the love …

“I always feel self-conscious when people stare at me and everyone stares in Italy ... I'm like walking eye candy.”

Whose problem is this?

“I’ve been in Italy 5 years and I still can't stand the stares. There is nothing I hate more than stares because it’s like I'm naked in public.”

Can’t stand it? Go home.

“ … my husband got into an argument with two men who stared at me for long periods while we were having dinner. Have any of you been stared at to the point of feeling very uncomfortable or a bit frightened?”

Lucky he wasn’t arrested.

The interesting thing about these snippets is that they are “all about me” comments. I feel self conscious, I can’t stand it, I feel like …

Good for you! But who cares?

It’s just is the way it is in Italy, and even if all foreign visitors and ex-pats decided to band together and protest staring, it wouldn’t change.

Fine to comment on it as a warning about the cultural difference to someone who may be traveling there for the first time, but please stop the incessant whining about it. There are things we all dislike about life that we can’t change. Accept it and move on. Keep bitching about it and you’ll forever be seen as an outsider and miss trading some deep, wonderful memories with Italians.

I say, get over it. Or, get into it.

When in Rome … or please stay home …

The Art of Ordering in "Al Bar" ... (in English: “café”)

The art of ordering food or drink in cafes ("al bar" in Italian) or sandwich bars that are more stand-up, eat-on-the-run type affairs can be confusing. It's simple; you just need to know the process. It's essentially "backwards" from what one would expect in the US. You order your food and drink, pay for it, and then pick it up or wait for it to be prepared. If at a coffee bar and you're ordering a sandwich or pastry and a coffee ... for instance ... you'd order them at the cash register ("la cassa" ... follow the crowd) and receive a receipt. You'd either pick up your sandwich or pastry (or wait for it to be heated in the case of a grilled sandwich) and then go to the coffee bar area and put your receipt on the bar (or do this while the sandwich is being heated or grilled). The barista will then come, check your receipt, and make your coffee.

It's customary to leave a few coins (ten cents? twenty cents?) to get faster service or as a tip. Italians are not big tippers, so if you're a wild tipper, be prepared for some wild reactions. But, more on tipping in a future posting. That's a topic worthy of more exploration.

WARNING: Objects in Mirror Look Bigger Than They Are!

Hotel and rental apartment pictures …

I've been criticized for having a romantic view of Italy ... that everything is perfect and they're better than other nations across the board. It's not true, but I will confess that I'm still in the infatuation phase of what I hope will be a life-long love affair with Italy and its people.

That said, there are plenty of things one can comment one that could use improvement, or are a downright problem. One of them, and I give you this warning, are web sites and brochures for hotels and rentals.

It seems that the Italians have mastered the art of using the best possible lens to photograph hotel rooms, bathrooms, restaurants, apartments for rent, etc.

Go to any hotel or rental apartment web site, and you'll be amazed at the beauty, size, and splendor of such properties. There is one thing of which you can be assured. No matter how big the rooms look ... and this kinda reminds me of that message you see on car mirrors, "Objects in mirror are closer than they appear!" ... in Italy it's, "Rooms in pictures and images on web sites are ALWAYS smaller than they appear!"

As well, there are some hotels and apartments that will have pictures that you just can't seem to find the setting for when you arrive ... get the picture? No pun intended. Can you say "stock photographs"?

How do you avoid being disappointed? I have a few suggestions.

1) Lower your expectations of what you see in pictures or on the web. Expect it to be smaller or more worn. If it's not, good for you. The traders in the market call this an "upside surprise". That's good by the way!

2) The other thought is to "check out" (research) properties with someone who's been there before. For hotels, www.venere.com is a great resource since it has reviews from people like you and I for just about every hotel in Italy. You'll need to throw out the one or two people at each end of the spectrum. The people that would complain even if seated at the right hand of God (you know the type), and the people that would be happy in that shack from the movie "Deliverance" (you know this type too). But, this will give you a real good feel for the property, and its quirks. Several apartment rental sites have feedback like this as well. Additionally, you can post on the message boards on:


http://www.slowtrav.com

http://www.virtualtourist.com

http://www.expatsinitaly.com

... and ...

http://www.frommers.com


You'll be amazed how frequently multiple people will respond to your postings ... people who have stayed at the same obscure (you thought) little gem in the middle of nowhere. It's shocking, but a fantastic resource. You'll get the scoop on a place before you pay the rent, or transfer the deposit. I've also found that most folks will take a call, or exchange e-mails answering all of your questions.

Good accommodation hunting! Let me know if I can help.

The Happy Hour "Perplexion" …

I recently stayed in a hotel in Varese, just north of the Malpensa airport (the more international airport in Milan) just to the west of Milan ("Milano"). It was so good that I'm planning a separate blog entry on the restaurant, bar, and hotel for future publication. But I have to tell this story because it highlights a major difference between Italians and Americans.

I was at the hotel because my best man and I had just finished a trip to my family's new apartment in Fano on the Adriatic coast to buy all the furniture ... which will be another blog entry. My wife could not make the trip due to work (job) matters, and I needed someone along to do some heavy lifting. We stayed in Varese because we were looking for somewhere to spend the night near the Malpensa airport because of an early flight back to the US the next day. It would have been painful to get up early enough to drive to Milan from Fano.

We just kind of threw a dart at the map and picked Varese. No goal in mind other than a (relatively) cheap hotel room, a good meal, and a good sleep. What we found, and how we found it, I'll leave for the next blog. But, let's talk about "Happy Hour" at the hotel's bar (that's the Italian meaning of bar by the way, meaning coffee bar as well as a place where you can get wine, beer, "aperitivi", and other drinks).

I was at the bar, waiting for my companion, when Happy Hour started. I'm pretty sure that there's no particular thing called "Happy Hour" in Italy ... it's just the time before dinner when people go out for a drink, socialize, and prepare for dinner. I'm certain there is an Italian word for it, I just don't know what it is ... yet.

Anyway, the bartenders started cutting up different foods and putting them on wooden cutting boards, on the bar, to serve them. They were, as in many Italian bars at this time, free appetizers (so to speak). Cheeses, cold cuts, little pastries, mushrooms ... you get the picture. It was clear that these were all special, locally procured foodstuffs, and were the normal fare at this time, every day. Nothing special for Italians, very special for us.

When my buddy arrived, and he had a few of these, he was floored (as was I) because they were so good. Not just good, fantastic!

My buddy asked, "Why don't they do this in the US? The best we can do is some fried something that's bad for you, only tastes good because of the fat content, and is mass produced. Or, some greasy meatballs in some unknown sauce."

At first, we were perplexed … really perplexed … very perplexed.

And then the correct response hit us right between the eyes. Why? Because in the US, those plates of foods would be devoured by one or two people who had to "get their fill” or "get their money's worth" (meaning something for nothing) and essentially ruin the party for everyone else. It would never work.

At the place in Italy, everyone had one or two of each item, satisfied themselves, and moved on. I'd go so far as to say they were thankful for the quality and the care of preparation. They didn't look at the items as goods they were entitled to so much as a "gift" or "treat" from the owners. Accordingly, they acted accordingly.

If this were the US there would be people at such an establishment, pick anywhere in the country, who would "pig out" on this stuff. Think of the people who "feed" at the buffets in Las Vegas. Get the picture? Save me, please!

It's a concept that works in Italy because quality comes before quantity, and self control ... and what I'll call "graciousness" ... come before selfishness ... at least in the case of good food. It would never work in the US, at least not in a public venue. What a shame. It was so darn good!

The Art of Ordering in an Italian Restaurant

Americans (especially) who visit Italy are often thrown off by eating in restaurants. It's not the food that throws one off because it's all so good (even if you happen to order something unknown to you). It's the process of ordering food, getting service during the meal, and paying the check that's the proverbial curve ball.

When Italians go out to eat, they mean business. There is no "casual" eating done in Italy. Italians are serious about their food ... all the time. Accordingly, restaurant owners are serious about running their restaurants. Keeping this in mind sets the stage for how to get the best service and not be disappointed.

First off, when you get seated at the table you'll get menus and likely a wine list ... no surprise there. However, you CANNOT dilly dally with looking at the menu, selecting what you want to eat, and being prepared when the waitperson comes back for your order. Unlike in the US, the waitperson is likely to return for your order relatively quickly. So, get down to business and select your meal and your beverages as quickly as possible.

If you are not prepared to order when the waitperson comes back, he or she will assume you want to take your time and socialize ... that you want a very slow meal ... which many Italians do. Because of this, the waitperson may not return for 10, 15, 20 minutes. To return sooner would be viewed as rude ... that they were trying to rush you.

For Americans, this is a concept as hard to understand as no fast food. We rush everything. Speed is coveted. Rewarded. Worshipped.

In Italy, this is taken so far to the other extreme that a restaurant owner rarely expects to turn a table twice in an evening or for lunch. In the US, how many times have you been almost carted from your table to the door so the restaurant can turn your table, serve another party, and collect another check? We've been asked to leave our table when sitting with coffee and after dinner drinks in the US at "fine dining" restaurants. When we push back, we've basically been told that they've done their bit, and we need to do ours (like leave).

This would NEVER happen in Italy. If it did, the restaurant would soon be out of business.

So, be prepared with your order ... the entire order. This means order your water, wine, antipasti, primi, secondi, and side dishes ("contorni") all at once. The only thing you won't order is desserts, after dinner drinks, or coffee.

When finished, you'll almost always need to ask for the check ("il conto"). You can also just get up and go to the cash register to pay. It will often be hard to find the waitperson to get your check. This is not because they're rude or incapable, but because they would never want to appear as if they were trying to rush you out the door. For a waitperson to ask you, unsolicited, if you wanted the check would be a cardinal sin in Italy. So, it won't happen. If they’re a restaurant that leaves a list of what you’ve ordered on the table, take it with you to the cashier (“la cassa”).

One thing you'll never have a problem with is the pace of the meal once you've ordered. Italians have mastered the art of pacing a meal. There will never be plates stacked up like jets into LaGuardia after a summer thunderstorm as can happen in many American restaurants. You set the pace by how fast or slowly you eat … not the kitchen.

I hear many Americans complain about slow service in Italian restaurants. This complaint is almost always about the beginning and/or end of a meal ... ordering or getting the check. Follow my instructions and you won't have this complaint, even if you are a demanding sort. Assume you don't need to follow them because you know better and I'll not want to hear you complain, which you will. I guarantee.

Buon appetito!

(Some) Secrets of Shopping in Italy

Shopping in most Italian stores ... smaller shops, which comprise most of the stores in Italy ... requires knowing the secret of getting to see the products you want. You'll be thanking me, eternally, for sharing this secret with you.

We still haven't figured out why, but Italian shopkeepers tend to only put on display a small portion (maybe 10% to 25%) of the goods they have available in their store. We've seen this number proven in jewelry stores, shoe stores, home goods stores, clothing stores, and just about any other type of store.

It could be that it's simply a matter of using space wisely. We've seen items stored in the most innovative ways under counters, under display windows, in back rooms, and in other locations across the vialle or across town ... and the shopkeeper will literally run down the street to retrieve a few items while you wait. Because of the construction, especially in downtown or city center ("centro") areas, it's not a simple matter to just add on to a store. Thus, the need for more than one location.

The other thought is that shopping, like all things in Italy, must be a social interaction of the highest order. In clothing stores, you work with the clerk to start the process of analyzing and selecting what you'd like to purchase. Shopkeepers prefer you NOT TOUCH THIER MERCHANDISE until they help you and tell you (or indicate to you) that it's OK to touch. It's a dead giveaway that you're not Italian when you start rummaging through goods (like I do at Sam's Club to find that 34 x 30 pair of jeans) to find what you need.

So, ask or point to start the interaction. Keep saying you don't like what you see and the clerk will slowly but surely continue to find new items for you, from shelves, from under counters, from back rooms, from other locations, until you've found something you like, or they've exhausted the options. Only when they tell you they have nothing else remaining do you know there's nothing else remaining ... and then you can be absolutely certain you've seen it all.

We have a favorite jewelry store we patronize. First, we start in the display case, move to the windows, move to things below the counter, and finally to the safe ... yes, they open up the safe and bring out the good stuff. You've heard the saying, "The good stuff's in the back."? Well, in this case we've learned the good stuff's in the safe.

One other aspect that should be explored is how well sales clerks know sizes and can tell you what size you wear by sight. I would venture that over 95% of the time, if they tell you it fits, it fits. No need to try it on. Seriously. Trust them.

As well, it's our experience that they will guide you to what looks good on you, and not try to push merchandize to get it out of the store. They'll be honest and tell you it's "bella" or "elegante", or just shake their head no or suggest something else if what you've selected is not "la moda". I'm told this law breaks down in the big cities, and it likely does, I've just never experienced it.

Now that you know the secrets: Happy Shopping!